rhyno - We know our cars are not drag cars and will never be (unless we do an engine swap). Our cars are track cars. Secondly the CAI from BMS (they race the Reno in rally races, and would you believe that they have beaten a WRC STi I bet you don't) and that produces 6hp from their dyno. I have no idea how much exhaust from the cat back produces or free up, so I would say at least 10hp becuase we have a very restrictive one. There is no dyno on a 2.25 piping exhaust and 10 seems reasonable. The under pulley for our car produces at most 20hp (It has been dyno, but it may be lost due to our proformace section being messed up).
So lets recap here.
CAI - 6hp
Exhaust - 10hp
UD pulley - 20hp
So we have 16hp from just the CAI and exhaust alone, so right now we are at 142hp (2 more hp than you said). Then if we where to take the full amount of power of the under pulley which is 20hp we will get 162hp.
I have no idea how much power is being push to the wheels, as I do no have these mods yet. Also I am sure things like loweing the car effect things as well. Kinky/danny was going to dyno his car which has these mods and more, so you may want to ask him. But please feel free to dispute my info as I gotten it from here from other members that know their stuff and from other forums and sites (finding info on our cars for almost anything is a chore to say the least).
The lighter pulley will give you better throttle response but is not gonna give you 20 hp..the cai will get you maybe 3 hp at best coupled with an exhaust maybe 10hp total...
Lowering the car will help it corner better, but no power gain..
The lighter pulley will give you better throttle response but is not gonna give you 20 hp..the cai will get you maybe 3 hp at best coupled with an exhaust maybe 10hp total...
Lowering the car will help it corner better, but no power gain..
That is correct with all of the mods that i have heard from this site, u may get a 10- 15 hp gain but in relation to putting that down to the ground you'll only see half. so lets recap for real numbers 126+15= 141 crank hp, whp with a 15% powerloss (avg) would be 21 hp... So we now have 141 hp minus 21 hp (powertrain loss) means you mite put down close to 120 whp...... anyone dyno their car to find out true number?
Friend of mine at the local dyno shop Gsc Motorsports in charleston told me avg. powerloss is 20%- 30% Ouch its not looking good
Last edited by IncognitoSpec : 07-24-2006 at 09:55 AM.
You guys are still feeding the troll... Just let the thread die.
A troll by definition is one who enters a thread for the sole purpose of getting people aggravated. Since rhyno did not START this thread, that makes him a troll. And yes, I will refer to him in third person because I'm done talking to him directly.
This is a person that even when faced with hard numbers and facts, refuses to believe a word. It's already been stated that if this Linc had a 454 it could have been pushing out anywhere from 390-500 HP (and thus would have dominated the Reno). No way to know.
I'm actually more inclined to believe that the guy lied about his 454 that to believe that AK was lying about beating him. If the car had the original engine, vs the Reno with a few "bolt ons", then it was a 1/2 second difference. Plain and simple.
I really am tired of this "HP is everything" mentallity.
I'm also really tired of the attitudes that have been popping up around here. People, please, for the love of Pete, if you don't like the car, DON'T DRIVE IT. And if you think a thread is BS, then DON'T BOTHER READING IT.
Think I'm going to do what Dog did and delete all the info I've ever posted here. Screw it. I'm done helping anyone.. Should be a requirement that if someone is going to post here that they have to own the damn car at least...
The lighter pulley will give you better throttle response but is not gonna give you 20 hp..the cai will get you maybe 3 hp at best coupled with an exhaust maybe 10hp total...
Lowering the car will help it corner better, but no power gain..
And I suppose you have a UD pulley and have had the car dyno tested with it. If not how can you speak to the HP that it produces. IT looses 11lb of wieght off of the crank and the considerably smaller dia decreases the load from the accessories by more than 30%. And just to enlighten you none of these mods make any HP they reduce restriction that is robbing the engine of its natural power in the first place.
I have seen the dyno results and it looked to be more toward 22hp peak. Thats not 20 spread across the range or counted in increments but the red line jumping 20 ticks higher on the graph than the blue line.
The UD pulley was the first modd I did and you could feel quite a difference in power not just throttle response.
So why don't all of you little trolls quit regurgitating dribble you read on some other blog or board and leave it be.
I have a question. When was it decided that all 4bangers will make exactly 10-15 hp with an intake and exhaust?
Rhyno you might want to read this it contains some of those cold hard facts you are so found of.
I see the arguement often that an intake and an exhaust is only going to get you 10 -15 hp on a 4 cyl. That statement is so misleading that it is laughable. Here is a list of variables that will cause this magic number to be considerable different from one model of car to the next.
1. the size shape and design of the intake being installed.
2. the design, parts used, and extent of changes made to the exhaust.
3.Fuel management.
4.Timing and ignition management
5. compression
6.Restriction
7. power delivery threw the drivetrain.
I will hit on a few of these.
The HP achieved by different intakes and Exhausts is stupidly obvious. Moving on.
The computer management sytem in this car is a Delphi 64 pin Fuzzylogic set up that is on par or better than any car out there under $40,000 dollars. I will get back to why you get such great gear for so cheap later. The car has electronic ignition and varible computer controlled cams, and a very nice tune port setup and could adjust to and handle up to 4-5 psi of boost stock or a 70shot of nitrous stock. You are not going to do that with a Focus.
The great thing about this car is that when you change things like the intake and exhaust it doesn't keep running the same stock parameters it adjusts the fuel and timing to the changes.
Compression, any one with car experience knows one very effective way of making power in a N/A engine is raising compression. This is usually done by dished pistons and or changing the stroke length. Perfect example is increasing the stoke of a 350 small block by using the crank and con rods of a 327 to build a 383 stroker. Well a Forenza is up over 10.5:1 atmospheres.
Resrtiction, here is where we get to the ponies. A Forenza has the most restrictive intake and exhaust system I have ever seen in a car. Below is a pic of the intake and trust me the exhaust is just as bad. But the car still has the 2nd highest HP and Torque in its class. I hear some people say how terrible a stock Forenza sounds under full throttle and I have a response that while being some what silly gets to the heart of the matter. Let me jump on your back and strangle you with both hands and then you try to run and yell while im doing that.
You can be provided with a dyno chart that shows an Optra (same car) With to big of an exhaust, a considerably less effective intake and the UD pulley making 126 fwhp which translates to about 155 crank HP. With the differences in my set up I feel confident I am making between 10-15 hp more than that. Then add in the couple of HP I am making threw some minor mods like grounding. So with just bolt ons I am in a completely different competetive class than stock, and power wise on par with most of your sport compacts that are N/A and some lower level boosted cars such as the 170 hp Lacetti WTCC+r which is our car running some boost thanks to a factory supercharger.
Drive train has everything to do with real world performance, gearing is as big a player as power and I am here to tell you these transmissions are top knotch. The 5 spd is a Gertrag F20 labeled as a D20 to denote Daewoo. This is a sports compact performance transmission that you can find bolted to turbo engines in several makes. The auto while I don't remember all the letters and numbers is a very good GM design that is the auto option in all of those same cars. The trans has the same Delphi controll and does change modes to change the shift points to suit what you are doing. The auto will hold 1st threw 3rd gears all the way to redline under full throttle. People recomend shifting at 5500 rpms because the power and torque drop off after that but that is not how to best use a dohc engine. The power slowly drops after that and the higher shift point lets you engage the next gear at a higher RPM that puts you just below the max torque only using the power range of the gear. This is not a drag racing set up where you have to leave the line from a stop 3000 rpm below max torque. Dohc motors suck at the strip no matter what car they are in. But the Transmission makes up for some of this. Once you have left the line and break about 20 mph you will never drop out of the power range and a stock Forenza will only shift 1 time in a 80mph 1/4 mile run which a comparable speed to most stock compacts and well over half the V8 cars from the 60-70s. The only thing you have to fear is a car that is veryfast off the line. To use my own post as an example a V6 Camaro is no rocket off the line and once I got my rpms up the older car with twice the miles on the engine just didn't have a chance.
Don't feed the trolls... LMAO! Awesome... Really what does it matter y'all??? Do what you want to do to your car... As long as you like it... I got all those mods... UD pulley, 2.5 exhaust, BMS CAI, shoes, 1.5 drop, and I love it... I'm not on here fighting with a troll about how much Hp I put out... I'm out driving MY car... LOL... I like my Forenza and she gets it on the road... That's all that matters... Haters will always hate...
anyone dyno their car to find out true number?
Linear Mode
