I haven't updated you all regarding the progress of the Reno in the San Francisco region Solo II championships. The plan was to race the Reno in H Stock all through the regional series and take it to one of the National Tour events in Atwater, this past weekend.
Well, a big change in plans has occurred. As a small background, racing in the Stock class for Solo II, you are only allowed to change the following items, air filter--not the plumbing, cat-back exhaust, shocks or struts, any wheel the same size as stock, any DOT legal tire that will fit on the wheel and be contained by the cars fenders.
I had some Kumho V710 slicks mounted and did some preliminary testing on a makeshift course. Compared to the Hankook RS2 Z212 tires which were already 2 seconds faster than your average all seasons, the Kumhos were at least 2.xx seconds faster than the Hankooks. Great!
We knew what the top car for the class was going to be--the Mini Cooper. Other cars that could potentially be at the event included the Acura RSX, Toyota Celica GT, Honda EP3 Civic SI, and the like. My girlfriend, whom has been very supportive of this endeavor, happens to own a Mini Cooper. Just for fun, and because the wheels have dual bolt patterns, we decided to mount the Kumhos on the Mini and run it on the same course. It was plain astonishing. That car was on average almost 3 seconds faster than the Reno! That was a reality check as to what we were up against--that was a stock Mini. Cars that are coming to the event were going to be prepped to the letter of the rules. We had to run the Mini if we were to have a fighting chance.
A month ago, my co-worker/co-driver decided to take the Mini to a regional event. First time out driving the car on the Kumhos and we pretty much won H Stock. There was another Mini Cooper in the class, but at the end of the day, that car was 3 seconds slower. If our times has been 0.5 seconds faster, we would have placed in the top 3 in the next class up, G Stock, dominated by the supercharged Cooper S. At this point, we're feeling pretty good about our chances against National competition.
Fast forward to this past weekend. A learning experience at the least, mixed results at best.
Plagued by allergies and a serious migraine, I was lagging a full 0.5 seconds behind my co-driver on the Friday test and tune course. We did narrow down the set up for tire pressures, and decided after 12 runs that we would settle on this for the weekend.
Saturday competition came around. I DNF'ed my first run, a big confidence breaker since now, I was questioning where I went wrong out on the course. The top guy in H Stock with a well prepared Mini was putting in times that were 2 seconds faster than everyone. My second run was solid, but amost 3.5 seconds behind the lead. Third run was almost a 1 second improvement, but still 2 seconds behind the leader, I would have to settle for fifth. My co-driver had a 3rd run that would have been good enough for 2nd, but he hit a cone, and that means a 2 second penalty, he'll sit in 3rd.
Sunday, the finale. I produced three clean runs. First run was solid, fast and no cones--only 1.5 seconds back. 2nd run was faster by 0.5 seconds, but still the leader was faster still by about 1.5 seconds. 3rd run was more than a full second faster than my first but I was still down a second. My co-driver had progressively faster runs for all three of his runs, and was only ahead of me by a scant 0.095 seconds at the end of the day! It is a sport where fractions of a second count. He'll settle for 3rd while I stay in 5th.
Lessons learned: All the drivers in the class acknowledged the fact the fact that we did more than respectable considering it was only the 2nd time out we were out with the Mini. The rest of the guys their were racing their cars all season.
As far as the Suzuki, Stock class may be too restrictive to let it play on an even playing field. It would have more of a chance in STS where you are allowed more modifications. But that class is populated by the '89 Civic Si, a car, in race trim, that is more than 600 lbs. lighter than the Reno. It's going to be a tough act to follow because even though stock for stock, the Reno has a 19 bhp advantage, it may not be enough to overcome the weight. The intake will help, as will an exhaust system. The key thing will be the suspension. The swaybars currently available are a step in the right direction. Coilovers are going to be key, and they will need to have compression and rebound adjustments. As of right now, any of the BMS mods will bump the car up to STS, and with just an intake, exhaust, swaybars and camber bolts, there is a lot left on the table for the Civics to beat up on. All mods will have to be done all at once in order for the Reno to be competitive in STS. For now, it was a lot of experienced gained, and the Reno will still compete in Stock at the regional level...stay tuned...
Awesome man! How long have you been auto-x anyways?
I dont know the solo2 classing rules very well, cept I know sts decently cuz thats what I was planning on running in. I think the reno has a good chance in it. It allows all the mods that greatly improve our cars compared to other cars were those simple mods dont unleash as much.
Transplant it seems that you have found the Reno limit stock wise. Even tho it is slower than the Mini you have to admit that the Reno verus a much more expensive car and a car built more for speed than ours the Reno holds up pretty well from what you and others have reported.
Question. You said that in the STS class you are allowed more mods on your car. Can you strip the car down and if so how much? I am just asking becuase of the weight of the 89Honda Si, is less than ours.
Properly prepped any competitive STS car will have the following items in order of importance:
-tires, Falken Azenis, Yokohama Advan, or Hankook RS2
-height adjustable dampers with compression and rebound, preferable able to accept race springs (400 lb. rates and higher)
-adjustable rear sway bar
-wheels (sub 10 lbs. if you can get them in the proper size) think along the lines of SSR or WedSport
-heavily bolstered seat, it helps by keeping you stead so you don't have to brace yourself with your arms and legs, allowing you to drive with "light" hands and feet, more feedback and control, not to mention some weight savings
-intake, header, exhaust, chip, underdrive pulleys (all or just a few, it's not really a power type of class)
-camber plates or camber bolts
-strut tower bars and lower tie bars
-brake rotors and pads--must be same size
allowable weight allowances, drop it all if you can bear not to have it
-A/C and all pumps/hardware related to it--frees up engine a bit, saves weight
-power steering pump
-stereo and speakers can be removed
-factory trim i.e. rub strips, emblems, cosmetic plastic trim pieces can be removed
I've researched this thoroughly and here's the above is a must regardless of your car.
Additionally, the hot car is the '89 Civic SI because it is 40 lbs. lighter than the '90-'91 model because of fewer reinforcements around the passenger cabin (nice! don't crash).
In stock trim, the civics weigh in at around 2200 lbs or so, in race trim, they can get down to 2000 lbs or so.
Power wise, it puts out 108 bhp (flywheel), but I've heard that up to 115 bhp (to the wheels)are not uncommon. But that's assuming you did all the power mods, which as you can see, can add up to quite a bit.
The Reno comes in at 2700 lbs and change depending on the model. 700 lbs. is a hard number to go against...but on the local level it might be able to get something done...
I'll be researching this heavily and see what the equation comes out to.
Originally posted by EC Transplant@May 2 2006, 11:00 AM -wheels (sub 10 lbs. if you can get them in the proper size) think along the lines of SSR or WedSport
Additionally, the hot car is the '89 Civic SI because it is 40 lbs. lighter than the '90-'91 model because of fewer reinforcements around the passenger cabin (nice! don't crash).
In stock trim, the civics weigh in at around 2200 lbs or so, in race trim, they can get down to 2000 lbs or so.
Power wise, it puts out 108 bhp (flywheel), but I've heard that up to 115 bhp (to the wheels)are not uncommon. But that's assuming you did all the power mods, which as you can see, can add up to quite a bit.
The Reno comes in at 2700 lbs and change depending on the model. 700 lbs. is a hard number to go against...but on the local level it might be able to get something done...
I'll be researching this heavily and see what the equation comes out to.
Look harder for wheels.. there are cheaper ones out there that weight a bit less or the same as those wheels mentioned. But if I were to pick any lite wheel it'd probably be volks Te37.. in 16x7.5 they weight 11lbs each. Dont know what they cost.. but I know for the 18x7.5 they are $600 each. Though, there are cheaper.. team dynamics has a 17x7" wheel at 16lbs for 160each
My forenza weight in at 2690lbs with 20lbs wheels, and approx 60lbs worth of subs. I'd be guessing, but with all the mods you are allowed the power to weight ratio would be close to the civics if it had all the allowable mods as well, but the civic would still have it. Dont they use smaller wheels as well?
Originally posted by kinkyllama@May 2 2006, 11:30 AM Look harder for wheels.. there are cheaper ones out there that weight a bit less or the same as those wheels mentioned. But if I were to pick any lite wheel it'd probably be volks Te37.. in 16x7.5 they weight 11lbs each. Dont know what they cost.. but I know for the 18x7.5 they are $600 each. Though, there are cheaper.. team dynamics has a 17x7" wheel at 16lbs for 160each
My forenza weight in at 2690lbs with 20lbs wheels, and approx 60lbs worth of subs. I'd be guessing, but with all the mods you are allowed the power to weight ratio would be close to the civics if it had all the allowable mods as well, but the civic would still have it. Dont they use smaller wheels as well?
There is no need to move up in size in wheel size past a 15. You can run up to 225mm wide rubber, but that would mean moving up to a 16" wheel and gaining at least two pounds per corner just on the wheel itself. Like I mentioned earlier, SSR Competitions or Enkie RPFs are about as light as you can go for a 15 for under $400 a piece. The SSR Competitions weigh in at 9.5 lbs a piece for a custom 4 x 114.3 and 15 X 6.5" fitment. The Rotas I have now are the only ones to break the 13 lb. barrier at 12.5 lbs. a piece and still cost only $125 each.
The Civics are running 15 x 6.5" or 7" wheels with 205/50 15" rubber. It's pretty much a "spec" class at this point and after several years of constant domination, this has been found to be best set up considering light weight and available grip from the tire.
Originally posted by EC Transplant@May 2 2006, 09:05 PM There is no need to move up in size in wheel size past a 15. You can run up to 225mm wide rubber, but that would mean moving up to a 16" wheel and gaining at least two pounds per corner just on the wheel itself. Like I mentioned earlier, SSR Competitions or Enkie RPFs are about as light as you can go for a 15 for under $400 a piece. The SSR Competitions weigh in at 9.5 lbs a piece for a custom 4 x 114.3 and 15 X 6.5" fitment. The Rotas I have now are the only ones to break the 13 lb. barrier at 12.5 lbs. a piece and still cost only $125 each.
The Civics are running 15 x 6.5" or 7" wheels with 205/50 15" rubber. It's pretty much a "spec" class at this point and after several years of constant domination, this has been found to be best set up considering light weight and available grip from the tire.
Yeah I know.. i was just giving you those sizes/price/weights as refrence. Can you move down in wheel size? You could probably fit 14".. though the selection of 15s is probably better.
15x6.5-
Desmond Rega Master EVO- 8.6lbs
Monster Sport Type-R Forged- 8.6 lbs
Racing Hart CP-035R SSF- 8.6 lbs
Spoon Sports SW388 Forged- 8.6 lbs
SSR Competitions- 8.6lbs
well... a 7" wide wheel will give better handling than 6.5". 225mm is perfect on a 7.5" wheel as well. With the SSR its only an extra pound per wheel for an extra inch in width.. personally I think its worth it. Though in auto-x and with the mods your allowed you probably dont need a 225mm tire. I know a guy in a supercharged intergra that runs 205mm on 7" wheel.. for auto-x it seams perfect.
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