I have an 04' forenza with about 95k miles. When I come to a stop at a light and get to about 15mph the car will jolt forward a bit. Then at about 5 mph the same thing will happen. When I start the car will go to nearly 3k rpm's and stay there for 5-6 seconds when warmed up. If the engine is cool it will go to about 2k and stay there for a few seconds. If i'm in a drive through and put it into park the rpm's will go to 3k and stay there, then put it back into drive the car will jolt forward and make a sound like the rpm's are too high for the gears to mesh right or something.
I did a diagnostic check on it about a month ago and they said it needed a new idle air conrtol valve, vacuum leak, egr valve, egr gasket, timing belt, and that the throttle bottle was dirty. I have cleaned and tested the idle air control valve (the pointer on the end will go back and forth when i turn the engine to on mode). I tested vacuum hoses for leaks without finding one. I found that the egr valve pin was stuck in close mode and I have cleaned that out to where it doesn't stick and moves back and forth nicely including replacing the gasket, have done nothing about the timing belt, and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body.
I went back to autozone for a diagnostic check and results were simply that the only problem was that the camshaft position sensor bank 1 is faulty and that replacing it would fix the high rpm problem which causes jolts when slowing down and putting it from park to drive.
I find it hard to believe that the camshaft position sensor is making all this fuss.
Despite cleaning and making operational the IAC valve and egr valve I am still going to replace them along with the timing belt, however, I am on tight budget and need to know what's the best part to replace on the car first and if that will fix my immediate problem with the high rpm along the jolts and jerks.
Timing belt: At 95kmiles, I hope for you it has already been replaced once... otherwise it is WAY overdue.
The jerk felt while the trans is shifting down seems to be a characteristic of the car. I feel it too, but only while it is warming up (fast idle). Since you already cleaned the IAC and EGR, I would try to force an idle speed relearn. Just disconnect the battery, or the ECM fuse for a few minutes. Then start the car and put the trans in "D" without A/C for a minute, same with "R" and "N". Redo the same with A/C ON. Order isn't critical.
I find doing this sometime resets the "gas/brake pedals at the same time" feeling I get while slowing down.
As for the CAM sensor... I had to do it once: 60$ sensor and less than 1hr of my time to install it. The worse is finding the right torx socket to unbolt it and not drop it in the timing belt cavity. Other than lighting the MIL and using more gas than usual, it did not interfere with anything else.
my 04 forenza revs up to 2-3k when cold though it only seems to do it when its below 70 degrees and it only dose it until it warms up. it makes it a little different when shifting when it is revving like that and holding low speeds (i have a manual by the way) i always thought it was a high idle feature on the car like the old carburetor engines did with the choke. i dont have any codes reading or any thing
I've tried the idle relearn and that hasn't worked so far. I just have to replace the parts that need to be replaced. I've come across Standard Motor Parts in amazon.com. These parts are significantlly cheaper than going to the auto parts store to get them. The $500 egr valve at autozone is $50 if I bought the Standard motor parts version of the egr. I was a little worried about the quality of the parts if I'm saving that much money. So I went to napa auto parts and asked if they knew anything about the company. The guy there said Standard Motor makes 80-90% of parts for Ford, GM and other car manufacturers and make alright products. Even though I don't have verry much respect for Ford or GM I'm confident a cheap Standard Motor part will do the job for my car. Considering that the Forenza is a mix between Daewoo (which is the version I have) and GM. Also, when looking at some parts under my hood I see "Hecho en Mexico" enscribed on them like the air manifold. How I see it, why buy a high dollar part for this 100% cheaply made POS? I've had problems since 15,000miles. Im getting rid of this thing before it breaks again.
hi jpenny376, welcome to the forum! the iac is on the rear drivers side of the throttle body. heres a link to a post that describes where it is and how to give it a quick cleaning which might solve your whole problem and save you a few bucks. if not you can swap in a new one. http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...-question.html
just in case thats not the problem how is your car behaving? are any codes present? let us know what happens.
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