Whats up everyone. I have a set of 2 12" planet audio subs being ran with a 2250watt amp and they rattle the shit out of my trunk. I found that the main problem is the lock. When I hold my finger on the trunk lock the rattling seems to be reduced to almost nothing. However, I have not yet found a way to keep the lock from rattling without removing it completely(out of the question). So any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
I was told by an install shop to do two things.
1. Move the trunk lock latch down, the one on the car, to mak the trunk lock down further.
2. To face my subs the opposite way. Instead of having the subs facing the rear of the car, have them face the front.
I moved the trunk lock down and it helped. I have not changed my speakers because I haven't felt like taking them out the trunk to turn them around, plus I don't know how much this helps, but he said it would make a difference. so maybe I'll try it eventually. The reason I came across these answers is because I wanted to dynomat my trunk to reduce the rattling and thinking that it would help with my sensor problem. I was told by the dealer, after a check engine light, that my evap sensor in the gas tank is malfunctioning, then was asked if I had subs, replied yes and was told that it could possibly be because the subs. the evap sensor reads a certain pressure in the gas tank and with the subs putting out sound waves it's confussing the pressure readings giving a check engine light. They said they are going to replace it but it would be unlikely to replace it if the same thing happens again, thereby voiding the warranty. I checked it out and it seems right. I turned my subs off for 2 days, I know horrible, and no check engine light for the most part, and with the subs on it goes on and off at random, kinda wierd. Do you have this problem?
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:Putting the biggest rim possible under the smallest cars with no after market modifications!
Oh just a little FYI. I have 2-12" DVC Q-power subs and a pioneer 760 amp which does some damage. I hade 2-275x MTX thunder amps, one on each speaker previously and it was ridiculous so to lighten it I went with the pioneer but it still rattles all to shit. The reason I don't need a big ass amp is because of the RMS rating of my smaller amp at max 14.4 volts and the fact the my capacitor keeps steady at around 14V so I think I need a 2 farad to keep it steady at the max volts of the amp 14.4. Also the fact that I wired my subs down to 1-Ohm to get the most output from my amp.
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:Putting the biggest rim possible under the smallest cars with no after market modifications!
Yeah I have two planet audio subs with those same specs. But as far as the rest of that technical jargon, I don't know what you are talking about. My electrical engineer friend is the one who set up my system for me. And yes, I do get a random check engine light when my subs are on, so you are probably right about the sensor confusion.
The way the car is set up with all the loose plastic and the trunk it is not made for having a system. I think I'ma get a wing to add a little weight to the trunk lid as to cut down on vibration. I did it to my honda and it helped quit a bit. Yeah I'm pretty sure that if you take it to the dealer they will tell you the same about the check engine light. Sorry about the confusion, I've just been installing systems for the past 8 years since college when everybody confused my electrical engineering degree to mean fix anything electrical.
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:Putting the biggest rim possible under the smallest cars with no after market modifications!
It's not the license plate I bought a dynomat kit for it for like $8 from an audio store. it's not so much the trunk anymore as the under side of the car.
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:Putting the biggest rim possible under the smallest cars with no after market modifications!
2. To face my subs the opposite way. Instead of having the subs facing the rear of the car, have them face the front.
This may reduce rattle but it will reduce the quality of sound. When you face subs towards the front of the car it will cause the bass to cancel itself out. I have two Infinity 10's and have personally tried it, and at the advice of a friend who has been in the car audio industry for 25 years he showed me with a db meter that it is better to have subs facing the rear of the car.
The only way to make forward facing subs sound good you would have to completely seal off the entire area around the box and this could only be done with something like "expando" foam, silicon or something like this. It takes alot of work and I personally don't recommend it unless you are making a show car.
This may reduce rattle but it will reduce the quality of sound. When you face subs towards the front of the car it will cause the bass to cancel itself out. I have two Infinity 10's and have personally tried it, and at the advice of a friend who has been in the car audio industry for 25 years he showed me with a db meter that it is better to have subs facing the rear of the car.
The only way to make forward facing subs sound good you would have to completely seal off the entire area around the box and this could only be done with something like "expando" foam, silicon or something like this. It takes alot of work and I personally don't recommend it unless you are making a show car.
PM me if you have any questions, this is an old login of mine.
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MY AUDIO INSTALL
Sub Amp Kenwood 7252
Mids and Highs Amp Kenwood 7202
Front Speakers Infinity 6020CS
Rear Speakers Infinity 6020CS
Subs 2 Infinity 1052's
Deck Kenwood KDC-X792
Trunk rattle
Best Buy Autotech Installer 
Linear Mode
