http://www.suzuki-forums.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:53:48 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.suzuki-forums.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.suzuki-forums.com http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34627-new-2001-vitara-jx-owner.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:00:42 GMT Recently got a 2001 Vitara JX 2.0L with 169k kms on it. Flushed the tranny fluid, changed differential fluids and the transfer case fluid. Not a DIY guy so gave it to a garage that I trust. Thanks to all the information and posts in this forum I knew what to look for while buying as well as the maintenance tips. :) Anything else that I need to do apart from all the fluid changes ? The brakes were changed recently before I purchased the vehicle. Recently got a 2001 Vitara JX 2.0L with 169k kms on it.

Flushed the tranny fluid, changed differential fluids and the transfer case fluid.
Not a DIY guy so gave it to a garage that I trust.
Thanks to all the information and posts in this forum I knew what to look for while buying as well as the maintenance tips. :)

Anything else that I need to do apart from all the fluid changes ? The brakes were changed recently before I purchased the vehicle. ]]> vhercules http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34627-new-2001-vitara-jx-owner.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34622-tracker-gas-tank-door.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:37:55 GMT We recently sold our 2000 GV and bought a 2002 Tracker ZR2. We really liked the GV better, but this one is newer, with fewer miles, and with the Chevy emblems I can drive it to work if I want to (they don't allow foreign badged cars where I work).

I have two questions: Does anyone know where I can buy a used gas tank door for the Tracker? I have called many junk yards and have not been able to find one. I'll buy a new one from a dealer if that is the only resource, but they want $75 for a new one.

Also, the ZR2 has unfinished dark dull gray plastic trim around the wheel arches and down the sides (factory installed). Does anyone know of anything I can apply to them to improve the appearance?

any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Roland ]]> Rollly http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34622-tracker-gas-tank-door.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34607-where-cheap-suzuki-gm-parts-online.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:41:50 GMT Hi all I have a 2002 Chevy Tracker convertible which is basically the same as the Vitara. I need to replace two of these plastic moldings behind the B-pillar which are used for the side windows of the soft top. The right and left side. Both are broken. The local GM dealer wants $212 for both plus tax. A Suzuki dealer about 1h away offered them to me for $140 per piece plus tax. The cheapest price online I found was for about $180 including shipping. GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) Ok. this is more than the tax at the Suzuki dealer but still worth not drive for 1 hour to get them and 1h back. Does anyone know a cheap GM or Suzuki online parts dealer that might beat that price? The part numbers are: Left side: 30022341 (GM) or 78532-68D00 (Suzuki) Right side: 30022339 (GM) or 78542-68D00 (Suzuki) Thanks Stefan Hi all

I have a 2002 Chevy Tracker convertible which is basically the same as the Vitara. I need to replace two of these plastic moldings behind the B-pillar which are used for the side windows of the soft top. The right and left side. Both are broken.
The local GM dealer wants $212 for both plus tax. A Suzuki dealer about 1h away offered them to me for $140 per piece plus tax.
The cheapest price online I found was for about $180 including shipping.
GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts
Ok. this is more than the tax at the Suzuki dealer but still worth not drive for 1 hour to get them and 1h back.
Does anyone know a cheap GM or Suzuki online parts dealer that might beat that price?

The part numbers are:
Left side: 30022341 (GM) or 78532-68D00 (Suzuki)
Right side: 30022339 (GM) or 78542-68D00 (Suzuki)

Thanks
Stefan ]]> TexTracker http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34607-where-cheap-suzuki-gm-parts-online.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34593-timing-belt-checkup.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:19:50 GMT Hi ! Need a good method of aligning the camshaft and crankshaft e.g check that it is correctly corresponding to the index marks. Had visiters in workshop and one might have thought it was funny to turn the flywheel when the head was off. Maybe just a joke :mad:, but need to be shure before putting on the timingbelt (think this is an interfernce engine?)! Hope for help ! // BERQA :frozen: Hi !
Need a good method of aligning the camshaft and crankshaft e.g check that it is correctly corresponding to the index marks. Had visiters in workshop and one might have thought it was funny to turn the flywheel when the head was off. Maybe just a joke :mad:, but need to be shure before putting on the timingbelt (think this is an interfernce engine?)!
Hope for help ! // BERQA :frozen: ]]> BERQA http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34593-timing-belt-checkup.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34560-headgasket-change-gv1600.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:29:36 GMT Hi all ! Now back again with some new questions regarding blown headgasket on a GV 1.6 ltr G16B engine. After som considderations and noise from the clutch, I decided to rip out the engine. No sweet, bought a crane with lifting device and after a cople of hours with downloaded manual in hand. it was out. Measured engine and head surfaces,,,,head needed to be flatened , gapped in middle section approx where there was a burned thread in gasket. Local engine shop made it flat and vacuum checked valves for $100. This time I bought new bolts and gasket from Suzuki SE ($300). Well so far so good , examined the clutch , no wear , but centering bearing just fell out when splitting. It was totally worn out and it seemed to have ridden on the outer edge of the flywheel not been pressed into and thereby centering the axle. The clutch was changed at the same time the engine was out at 12 kkm (rebuilt on warranty due to excessive piston gap) and at the same authorized workshop (long story). Have ordered a new kevlar strengthened clutch kit. The head gasket was blown one time before (2 years ago) and the same workshop had used copperpaste on three head bolts then!! Sorry just a bit frustrated about this, better do the job by my self. Now to my question; If the crankshaft have been moved more then +/- 90 deg towards the camshaft during time when timing belt was off, how to aling this again correctly. Both index marks are visible but I would lik to be absolutely shure no missmatch is possible. Read that #4 cyl should be in compression stage (rocker arms free) and TDC when index marks correspond to each other, correct ? Or any other good method appriciated. Tanks in advance ! // BERQA at the stormy Swedish west coast. Hi all !
Now back again with some new questions regarding blown headgasket on a GV 1.6 ltr G16B engine. After som considderations and noise from the clutch, I decided to rip out the engine. No sweet, bought a crane with lifting device and after a cople of hours with downloaded manual in hand. it was out. Measured engine and head surfaces,,,,head needed to be flatened , gapped in middle section approx where there was a burned thread in gasket. Local engine shop made it flat and vacuum checked valves for $100. This time I bought new bolts and gasket from Suzuki SE ($300). Well so far so good , examined the clutch , no wear , but centering bearing just fell out when splitting. It was totally worn out and it seemed to have ridden on the outer edge of the flywheel not been pressed into and thereby centering the axle. The clutch was changed at the same time the engine was out at 12 kkm (rebuilt on warranty due to excessive piston gap) and at the same authorized workshop (long story). Have ordered a new kevlar strengthened clutch kit. The head gasket was blown one time before (2 years ago) and the same workshop had used copperpaste on three head bolts then!! Sorry just a bit frustrated about this, better do the job by my self. Now to my question; If the crankshaft have been moved more then +/- 90 deg towards the camshaft during time when timing belt was off, how to aling this again correctly. Both index marks are visible but I would lik to be absolutely shure no missmatch is possible. Read that #4 cyl should be in compression stage (rocker arms free) and TDC when index marks correspond to each other, correct ? Or any other good method appriciated.

Tanks in advance !

// BERQA at the stormy Swedish west coast. ]]> BERQA http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34560-headgasket-change-gv1600.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34544-2003-petrol-v6-loss-power.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 07:20:59 GMT 2003 v6 grand Vitara Motor cutting out. Ran rough engine light came on and now starts and then cuts out, smells rich when it does run?
Never had a problem with it beffore.
How do I check the codes?? Do I bridge b&d or does it also need a fuse put in place to test??: ]]> meanmyne http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34544-2003-petrol-v6-loss-power.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34532-bleeding-brakes.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:24:01 GMT whats the bleeding sequence for a 5 door gv no abs had all new pipes so needs to be bled up right hand drive. o2 whats the bleeding sequence for a 5 door gv no abs had all new pipes so needs to be bled up right hand drive. o2 ]]> craig8661 http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34532-bleeding-brakes.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34492-i-think-you-should-have-how.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:26:37 GMT im member of a few forums and some have a how to section for comman things like bulb replacment brake shoe etc. the how to could include photos or even contain hints and tricks to help get the jobs done. what do people think im member of a few forums and some have a how to section for comman things like bulb replacment brake shoe etc.
the how to could include photos or even contain hints and tricks to help get the jobs done.
what do people think ]]> craig8661 http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34492-i-think-you-should-have-how.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34491-2000-gv-front-rotors-removal.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:41:58 GMT Hi everybody I'm tryng to replace the wheel lug nuts and bolt and I'm trying to figure how hard it is to remove the rotors or I don't need to do it in order to replace the wheel bolts ?
Anybody done before ??? ]]> 1dinamo http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34491-2000-gv-front-rotors-removal.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34482-do-i-need-colder-spark-plug.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:03:24 GMT I'm going thru and making sure all the maitenance items are current on the 2001 Tracker ZR2 V-6 I just bought. The vehicle has 70K miles on it and the seller told me it was his mother's and "she kept the oil changed and not much else". I've done the trans filter and fluid, an oil change, the rear differential and now I came to the spark plugs. The book says change at 60k and the book mentions Denso as an OE replacement, so after checking here and reading a few reviews, I ordered Denso SK16R11 plugs. When I pulled the plugs in the vehicle (original? don't know) they are NGK IFR5J11 plugs. They have a whitish/greyish deposit on them that when compared to a plug diagnosis chart says "incorrect heat range, too hot". I'm contemplating going to a colder plug, but I think I'll run these for about 5K miles and pull and check them.
Are the NGKs original? I am wondering if the the high mileage on them has caused this to happen?
Has anyone found a similar issue on their Tracker / Vitara 2.5 V-6? Should I just step down a heat range now? Thanks for any help! ]]> DesertTracker http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34482-do-i-need-colder-spark-plug.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34480-oil-dipstick-what-does-top-mark.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:13:38 GMT On my 2000 2.0 the oil dipstick has two marks, just like all dipsticks.

On every car I have ever owned (20+) the top mark means FULL.

However, on the 2.0 after an oil change with filter and 5.5 qts of oil like the book says, the level shows up in the middle of the two marks. This bothered me. I have let it sit overnight and it still reads in the middle.

The owners manual shows pictures of dipsticks for a 1.6 and a 2.0. According to the pictures my dipstick looked like the one shown for a 1.6 so I ordered a new dipstick for a 2.0. Well the new dipstick is identical to the one I have. The pictures in the owners manual must have been labeled wrong.

In the owners manual it states that you shouldn't fill above the hi mark.

So my main question is, does the top mark on the dipstick mean HIGH instead of FULL?

Is the normal (FULL) level for the dipstick between the two marks?

Thanks ]]> Rooster250F http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34480-oil-dipstick-what-does-top-mark.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34405-my-99-gv-got-away.html Sat, 07 Nov 2009 23:19:00 GMT I let my 99 GV go today...to a nice couple who I hope will treat it well. I've transitioned to an old Dodge farm truck more capable of hauling/towing, but definitely less thrifty on dino-juice. Will still be on the board occasionally...before I sold the GV, I bought my daughter an 01 Tracker...so we still have one Zuke in the family. ]]> tmcalavy http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34405-my-99-gv-got-away.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34377-permanently-dim-ac-button-lights.html Fri, 06 Nov 2009 07:41:23 GMT I have a 2000 Grand Vitara with around 74000 miles on it. First of all, forgive...I posted on this issue awhile back but I am still not any closer to a resolution to a peculiar problem I am having with the LEDS in the A/C and heater buttons and , to some degree in my car stereo, than I was then.

First of all, the way I understand those buttons are to work is that they are bright in the daylight and they dim at night to prevent what someone on here told me is "haze". I've had others tell me differently but I personally think that this is the way it's setup from the facotry.

I never really noticed these lights before a few months ago, until I started having problems. Now I park my car in a garage which is either dark at night or shady during the day, so when I start my car the LED's initially are bright, but then I hear a clicking sound and then they go dim.

Then, when it was running good and if I backed out of the garage and into the daylight, the LEDS would go to bright and stay on bright until something, either the computer or light sensors detected that it was it thought was night.

Well eventually, when driving around in the daytime, the LEDS started flicking in and out from bright to dim, and there seemed no apparent pattern to this, that is until I noticed that they would switch when any type of shade at all, even from a tree or something would pass over the light sensor on the top of the dash. There are two of these. Since this would happen so quickly, they would then switch back to bright quickly

I've had it into the local Honda dealer, the place where I bought the car (there is no Suzuki dealer in my city) and they've upgraded the software a few times and since then there's not even any switching back and forth with the LEDS anymore. After that initial brightness when I turn on the car, they stay dim all the time now, even in the daylight.

At first this problem was just becoming a little annoyance that went into my "need to be fixed" category, because I'm a person who likes all of my equipment to work perfectly, but now it's actually a little bit of a pain to see what lights of what buttons are on because the LEDS are so dim during the day.

I do feel that the Honda dealer has done it's best to fix this but I do think they are limited about how much they know about Suzuki's. We are going to try one more thing and then I'm going to give this Import repair shop a shot at it. That is, they are going to replace the light sensors on top of the dash.

To me that just makes sense because it sounds to me like the system isn't able to detect when it's really light and when it's dark and a quick pass by piece of shade during the day should not be able to throw that thing out of sync that easily.

I've heard from others that it may have something to do with the Body Control Module but we really haven't explored that yet. Besides if I needed a new one, from what I understand it's very expensive. I just talked to a Suzuki service department from another city today and he did not think it had anything to do with the BCM.

What do you think? ]]> janlafata http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34377-permanently-dim-ac-button-lights.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34364-vitara-2-0l-fuel-pump-problem.html Thu, 05 Nov 2009 18:42:56 GMT Hi,

I have a Vitara 2001 and the car don't start... the starter works perfectly when I try to start. I tried to put some fuel in the intake and the car start so I suspect a problem with the fuel pump.

I partially removed the tank to check the connections and all is OK without verdigri. I don't hear the pump running, so is there someone here that can provide me the wiring diagram for the pump I will be able to do more test on it!

There 2 wiring connectors on the, one with 3 wires and one with four. The four wire connector have 2 ground, one wire with ) volts on it and one with 7.25-7.50 volts (I think it's the gauge wire but I am not sure until I get the wiring sheme). The other connector have 3 wires, one with 5 volts on it, one ground and one wire with 0 volts on it.

I will really appreciate your help. Thanks! ]]> bobmirko http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34364-vitara-2-0l-fuel-pump-problem.html http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34361-copper-brake-pipe-size.html Thu, 05 Nov 2009 17:44:21 GMT just wondering my grand vitara failed on the metal brake pipes along the chassie.
does the copper pipe size 3/16" sound right or with it being suzuki like most other stuff its a stupid size thats main dealer only ]]> craig8661 http://www.suzuki-forums.com/1g-1999-2005-vitara-grand-vitara/34361-copper-brake-pipe-size.html