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Differential oil change

35K views 30 replies 9 participants last post by  blkprlz 
#1 ·
I have a 2011 GV 2,4 with 12000 km. I have checked the manual and it says differential oil should be changed at 12k. I wonder if it is correct, and if so, it is just the rear diff or also the front diff and transfer case.

Thanks in advance

Rod
 
#2 ·
Yes, the owner's manual is correct. The 12K km should be considered the "break-in period". Do both front and rear differentials. Although the owner's manual may not call for the transfer/extension case to be changed at 12K kms, I'd probably do it at the same time. It doesn't take much oil and if the tech is under there anyway, it won't add much to the job. Be aware, the diffs and transfer case take different oils. The differential needs GL-5 Gear Oil and the transfer/extension needs GL-4. The two oils are not interchangeable. After that, most people change the diff oil and transfer/extension case every 50K kms.
 
#5 ·
My owner's manual for my 2006 2.7L calls for:

Front Differential: 1.0L GL-5 75W-90 or 80W-90

Rear Differential: 0.9L GL-5 75W-90 or 80W-90

Manual Transmission: 1.9L GL-4 75W-85 or 75W-90

Transfer Case: 1.6L GL-4 75W-85 or 75W-90

Extension Case: 0.4L GL-4 75W-85 or 75W-90

Only the diffs take GL-5, everything else uses GL-4.
 
#6 · (Edited)
annfan, this is interesting, as my owners manual (also 2006 2.7L) shows a chart specifying API grade GL-4 gear oil for the transmission/extension case, and GL-5 Hypoid gear oil for the transfer case and both differentials (the "extension case" is only on 2WD vehicles).

Why the difference? Am I reading the wrong part of the manual? (the chart I'm describing is on page 9-13, under "Specified Gear Oil").

Various oil viscosities are also listed by temperature, but 75W90 seems to cover everything, so that'd be my choice.

Capacities also seem to be a bit different; on the capacities chart under "specifications," mine reads:

Front Differential: .095L

Rear Differential: 0.9L (2WD) or 0.8L (4WD)

Manual Transmission: 1.9L

Transfer Case: 1.5L (with transfer switch) or 1.6L (without transfer switch)

Extension Case: 0.47L


And, I gotta say, while I understand the requirement for GL-4 in the transmission (won't corrode the brass synchros), I'd expect GL-5 to be specified for the transfer case where the action of the mechanical LSD would seem to warrant the extra friction modifiers and better shear resistance of GL-5 oils. Are there any brass parts in the transfer case?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Kootenanny, I'm not sure about your owner's manual, but mine clearly specifies GL-4 for the transfer case. I've attached scans from my manual as well as the pages from the factory manual for the 2.7. They all require GL-4 in the transfer case and GL-5 in the diffs. So that is what I use.

I believe, in theory, it should be possible to use GL-5 in a high pressure gear situation where the is no soft, brass to corrode. It is a better lubricant for sure. I remember this very point was discussed at great length in the forum before.
 
#10 ·
I just bought 6L of GL-5 today to do the lot! The guy at repco (ex mechanic) assured me there was not much difference! But he couldn't explain the difference!

What IS the difference / reason between gl4 and gl5?
 
#11 · (Edited)
GL-5 gear oils often contain sulphur-based additives which help reduce friction; these additives can corrode "yellow" metals such as brass. For this reason, most manual transmissions specify "GL-4" oils, which do not contain these "friction modifiers" and are not corrosive towards brass.

That said, there are some modern synthetic gear oils which meet both GL-4 and GL-5 specs--they are slippery enough to protect hypoid gears, while not having any corrosive additives. Be careful with these in a manual transmission, though--as I understand it, GL-5 oils may hamper synchromesh operation due to their extreme slipperiness.

This is why annfan and I are having this discussion; there is a difference between these specs, and it can be important to use the proper oil to prevent future problems. I'm surprised that annfan and I have manuals showing different specs for the same vehicle. Anyone else with a 2006 model want to check their manual and post up the specs?
 
#12 ·
Hey Kootenanny, that is interesting. My Owner's Manual has a different part number and date: 99011-66JC0-28T September 2005. My GV was built 11/05. Obviously Suzuki changed their mind on lube for the transfer case. I seriously doubt they made any actual changes to the transfer case itself, just to the lube spec. Good to know for the next time I'm under there getting oily, changing the fluids. Thanks for the info.
 
#13 ·
I agree, probably just updating their specs. Makes sense, as the 2006 model year saw a whole lot of changes.

I was interested in this, because as soon as the weather gets a bit nicer, I'm planning to change all the fluids in the new GV. I've already purchased the oil, and there was some confusion since Redline makes both a 75W90 GL-5 gear oil and a 75W90NS GL-5 oil, which "Contains extreme pressure additives like our 75W90 GL-5 oil, but lacks friction modifiers to balance slipperiness" (from their website--it's intended for transaxle transmissions, which have both the transmission gears and differential hypoid gears in the same oil). I contacted Redline, and they recommended the regular GL-5 for my GV transfer case (although I'm sure GL-4 would work as well).

(Oil threads...common on any "gearhead" forum...:p )
 
#14 ·
I used Redline's synthetic gear lubes when I changed everything out about 18 month's ago and everything seems to be okay. I was expecting an improvement in extreme cold weather, but it didn't really materialize. I'd be interested in what you think after the switch.
 
#15 ·
I bought Redline gear oil because it was one of the least expensive "premium" oils available--but their pricing is all over the place, in other stores of the same chain in the same area, the same Redline oils are some of the most expensive (pushing $30/litre in one store, I was flabbergasted...).

I'm also hoping for better low-temperature performance; we'll see.
 
#16 ·
Is it good to get full Synthetic oils?? Will it make gear changing smoother?

It's $33 a litre, but I dont mind paying that if it's actually gonna make the difference! It's not like you have to change it every service, so might as well spend a bit of money on it!
 
#17 ·
Is it good to get full Synthetic oils?? Will it make gear changing smoother?
That's a huge can of worms.

I like synthetic oils, and use them...but I'm not religious about it. I believe that they tend to have better longevity than conventional oils, and the lower pour points (for a given viscosity) means they should work better at start-up, especially in cold weather. They can also better resist thinning too much at higher temps.

It is, however, a complex subject. There is lots and lots of literature out there about it--mostly directed towards engine oils, but here is one article specific to gear oils: Synthetic Gear Oil Selection
 
#18 ·
So rather than getting too much into it, is there semi synthetic oils?

Best of bother worlds kind of thing!?
 
#19 ·
IMO, it's the worst of both worlds. You get the performance of a conventional at the price of a synthetic...

Keep in mind, though, that depending on labelling regs, the word "synthetic" on the bottle might mean much or little--many "synthetic" oils are made from highly refined conventional base stocks. Since these usually meet the same base performance criteria as synthetics, they are allowed to be labelled and marketed as such (at least here in North America).

So, this is really a bit of a crapshoot...do some reading and decide whom to trust. Personally, I use AMSoil in my bike, but I'll change to Redline or Royal Purple or any other of the well-known premium oils if it's convenient. For the car, I'll use somewhat less expensive synthetics, such as QS (which is probably made from conventional base stock), because the car takes more oil, and I change it more often--I drive it more than I ride the bike. When I had a large diesel truck, I used the cheapest conventional oil I could find and changed it often--I had around 500,000 km on it with no engine problems.

For driveline gear oils, I'm willing to shell out for premium synthetic, because I don't want to do it often (nor do I want to cause any damage). I see it as a case of "can't hurt, might help." ;)
 
#20 ·
I've just been told, that unless theres been Synthetic oil in it from the start, theres not much point in changing to it now! Is this true?

Basically, what exact oils should I buy for transfer case, diffs, and gearbox?? (2.7v6 manual)
 
#21 ·
Many guys will suggest using a conventional oil during break-in, then changing to synthetic.

What some might be telling you is that if a car comes with conventional oil in it from the factory, then they see no reason to change. That has merit, but the main reason an automaker would put conventional oil in is because it meets their specs but is cheaper.

On the other hand, some vehicles come with synthetic oil from the factory, and these may well be designed with synthetic lubricants in mind; these should only be changed with synthetic.

As I said above, this is a controversial subject, and it argued widely in internet forums. My best advice would be to read your owner's manual and choose oil weights and grades accordingly; synthetic or conventional is up to you (there are a ton of articles on the web).
 
#22 ·
Sweet!

Well, according to the service manual i'll go with this!

Transfer Case + Gearbox = API GL-4 75W-90 > 3.4L total

Front and Rear Diff = Hypoid API GL-5 80W90 > 2L total!

(does hypoid mean non-synthetic? or is that something different again?)
 
#23 ·
My 2007 service manual say GL5 for front and rear diff as well as the transfer, only GL4 for transmission which makes sense.

From my experience I had Amsoil MTG in the transmission once and when it is hot there is a rubbery squeaky noise from the shifter. I am now using ELF TRANSELF SYNTHESE FE and the noise is no longer there.

I actually use the ELF oil in all the diff / transfer and transmission as it is GL4/GL5/MT-1 compatible.

I buy it by the 20L container and use it in all my cars apart from the diff of my track car where the mechanical limited slip diff it a little picky with oil (Motul Gear competition).

Talking about Motul the Gear300 is also GL4 / GL5 / MT-1 rated.
 
#27 ·
So is hypoid oil, NON synthetic???

as it states hypoid API GL-5 for diffs!
 
#28 ·
"Hypoid" is a type of gear design used for differential gears (among other things). The forces are high and there is a fair bit of sliding contact, so a gear oil with high film strength is required, usually with lots of additives to enhance lubricity.

"Hypoid Gear Oil" simply means the oil is rated to handle the requirements of a hypoid gear system; it could be either synthetic or conventional.
 
#29 ·
cheers,

So I'm going to go out today and splash out on all synthetics!

3.5L of API GL-4 75W90 for transfer case and gear box,

and 2L of Hypoid API GL-5 80W90!

DONE! :)
 
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