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Old 03-03-2012, 03:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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crazy!!
did you get the file?
it mentions you need to remove the rear mount bolt on the control arms as well, but you can get away with removing that bolt on only one side then sneak it out..
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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What I have done so far, I inspected the crossmember and started spraying some penetrating fluid on the fasteners that need to be removed.


In this picture you can see where the control arm bracket let go. The welds rusted out and the mount is no longer attached to the crossmember. I circled the fasteners that need to be removed in yellow.



In this picture you can see the extent of the rust on the crossmember.



This is the "better" side that has not failed yet.
(fasteners that need to be removed are circled in yellow



Here is an underside shot of the crossmember. This picture shows the 2 bolts that hold the steering rack and fasteners under the radiator support.



Drivers side view from the top.



Passenger side view from the top.



Driver's side from wheel well.




Passenger side from wheel well.


So tomorrow I'm going to the salvage yard and going to try and pull a good one of a donor vehicle. I will also make sure to sand and paint it to try and prevent it from rusting like this one.

I'll post more pictures and videos as I get more done!

Cheers!
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is Larry's provided Crossmember Recall Service Bulletin as well...

Crossmember Recall.pdf

Thanks Larrry.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'm going to the salvage yard and going to try and pull a good one of a donor vehicle.
THAT would take a lot of searching and rip-out to find a decent one in your area, no?

Can't you just buy a new replacement?

LARRY!

Oh, Fierodough...VERY well done write-up and pics thus far, BTW.

Here you go. Brand new factory stuff. Part number taken from the Recall info...

2002 - SUZUKI - VITARA - - L4 - 2.0L - GAS
FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / FRONT SUSPENSION / CROSSMEMBER
4580066D01 - CROSSMEMBER Vitara, Grand Vitara

http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/...&siteid=214820

To me, it would be worth it not having to lay under some junk yard Zuk up there in the frozen tundra, freezing my arse off.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max View Post
THAT would take a lot of searching and rip-out to find a decent one in your area, no?

Can't you just buy a new replacement?

LARRY!

Oh, Fierodough...VERY well done write-up and pics thus far, BTW.
The ones that have been recently replaced under the recall are in decent shape. I have seen a few at the yards that look almost new. A new one is $300 over here. That's almost what I paid for the truck! LOL! This is my winter beater / trail fun truck.

I intend to document most of the repairs and mods I do on this truck as the second generation Tracker / Vitaras don't have as much helpful resources as the first gens have.

Cheers!
Eric
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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As an added note, the underside of this truck is rust-free. My rockers had rusted through but I replaced those and I have a small rust bubble near my fuel filler door. Otherwise, it's not that bad. There is a serious issue with the rust inhibitor they used on those crossmembers.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:22 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
The ones that have been recently replaced under the recall are in decent shape. I have seen a few at the yards that look almost new
Well that is better news.

DO see my (edited #16) post above referencing a new one though.
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I'm with Max on this..
If you use the recall part number, the price drops to about half!
I'd definately go with new for the extra $70ish
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Old 03-03-2012, 08:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm in almost the same boat here except that mine hasn't fully separated yet because someone attempted welding some reinforcement on it. It's ugly. I found a solid donor at the yard and almost had it off when I broke the bolt trying to separate it from the rubber bushing. Had to pay them extra to have it torched the rest of the way off the next morning and wasn't there to see how it finally came out. I scuffed it and sprayed it with rust inhibitor and will final coat it with epoxy paint in a couple of days. I can tell you that there're two locating pins on the top side so there'll be no question as to alignment when installing it to the frame. I haven't read the pdf yet, but thanks for that.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I found these instructions from another site (not from me) I plan on using them today.


My 1999 Tracker was denied coverage for its rusted crossmember. The following is what I did with mine. If you chose to do it yourself I've posted how I did it as a guide, I am not an expert it's just information that I think will be helpful.

I purchased a new crossmember from Gmpartseast.com for $237.89 including shipping. I replaced the crossmember myself in my driveway.

I started by spraying all the bolts with penetrating oil a few times the week before I started. 4 bolts are inside the frame accessible through an oval hole in the frame. 4 bolts accessible from under the hood looking down at the crossmember.4 nuts on the lower control arm pivot bolts (I only removed the front bolts). 2 bolts for the radiator support from underneath the car, as are the 4 bolts for the steering rack not so easy to spray. 1 bolt that secures the power steering hose on top of the crossmember I just sprayed on top of this bolt.

To remove the crossmember I removed parts in this order.

1: the bolt securing the power steering hose 10mm wrench or socket.
2: 2 bolts for radiator support 12mm socket.
3: 4 bolts for steering rack 14mm socket it is a tight fit between the front differential.
4: 2 bolts with nuts for the lower control arms 17mm wrench and socket also ball peen hammer and punch to push bolts out.
5: 8 bolts securing crossmember to frame 17mm socket I had to loosen then tighten spray with oil repeat process a few times be patient.
6: using 2 floor jacks I jacked the front wheels until they were just off the ground (place jacks under the frame at factory designated position).
7: Place jack stands under frame.
8: With an assistant using a 5ft. long pipe or pry bar pry the lower control arm down on one side.
9: Now you can wrestle the crossmember out once you get past the pried down control arm your assistant can stop prying.

To install reverse the steps. Remember 2 outer rear bolts in crossmember should be in place before installing as lower control arms block these. Once crossmember was in place I did not fully tighten until after I got steering rack bolted in place. My steering wheel is slightly off center when vehicle is going straight I will look into this (check alignment).

I know I covered some very basic concepts in my explanation but this job is not that hard to do for the average person. Also I chose to pry the lower control arm down instead of climbing all the way underneath my vehicle, if you do it this way be careful you do not break it.

My Tracker has been a very economical vehicle for the nine years I've owned it. The crossmember rust issue has been a bit of a disappointment for me with GM.
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