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Old 08-19-2016, 08:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
Max
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Smile H25a (V-6) Engine removal / replacement...

This will be a chronicle of events on changing out the original engine with a 50K mile replacement.

The new engine is from a 2000 GV Limited 2WD, with automatic trans that I acquired several years ago. In as such, I'll have to configure it to fit the needs of my 1999 standard trans, 4WD, GV platform.

Prompting this effort is...



Yep. 300k of never opened up (and the original clutch too) faithful miles.

It will be weeks (maybe months) before this is complete as there is no urgency in the matter as she still runs fine. I plan to take pics along the way and post them accordingly with any narrative of value, in hopes that it will help others or if folks have suggestions to share.

It should be fun!
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Old 08-23-2016, 09:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default I could use some guidance

Pulling off the auto trans is proving to be a bit difficult.

*The four flex-plate bolts are removed (the torque convertor spins freely via the starter hole, for verification).

*Four bellhousing bolts and the two nuts on the lower mounting studs removed as well.

*And of course the cables and wiring disconnected from the tranny

I can achieve up to a 1/4" of separation gap on the right side, maybe 3/8" on the starter side. A 1/4" viewed at the top as well. She still won't pull off.

I've tried various blocked up support points (alternating between the very front of the pan and the rear mount area) attempting to acquire a balance or tipping point of the trans weight. And of course lots of wiggling and up / down trans movement to create separation. Nothing works as of yet.

Yes, the exhaust "Y" pipe is still installed, but I have plenty clearance in that area, for right now at least.


Questions:

*For those who have man-handle this trans...is it extremely nose heavy due to the added weight of the torque converter? I'm thinking maybe it is thus I have to concentrate on supporting the front more?

*Could I simply be hung-up on the two remaining studs acting as alignment pins (of sort)? That has been my area of focus as of late.


I'll PM a couple of you who posted recently with regards to engine swaps to join in here too, if you would.

I've yet to go Medieval with pry-bar attempts, but I'm getting close to that point!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:47 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I did it when I did the rear main seal. You're not going to like this without a lift but...you will need to wiggle it off. It just get seized. I held it by the transfer case while it was on a jack and he wiggled it off with a big pry bar screwdriver. It's just the way it is. Make sure your 4x4 shifter is disconnected at the top. Also your shift linkage. Beware that the harness also runs on top of the transmission and its clamped in several places. Do not forget to remove your kick down cable as well. The studs act as only alignment pins. They do make the job a bit more difficult at that's how far it has to be separated.

And by the way it's heavier in the rear due to the transfer case.

You can remove the torque converter bolts through the flywheel undercover. You'll need a really long fled head ratching wrench while you hold the crankshaft. No need to remove the starter. Well I guess there is a need to remove the bolts but yeah. Make sure the cross member has been lowered as well. Be very, very careful when doing this job on the ground or floor.

Last edited by ForenzaLover; 08-23-2016 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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She's sitting on the pallet just like pictured.

And no transfer case or alike (in-place) stuff involved here (2WD donor).

So I may need to go brute force, huh?
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hi Max, never thought of you needing to pull old faithful.

Is the current issue with the one on the pallet?

Yes the location pins tend to anneal with age, but if all the retainers are out it should break free.

I have not had to remove a Suzzi 6 as yet, but would think is would be straight forward.. Do you plan on pulling the whole assembly or splitting it in vehicle..?

If pulling as an assembly you would need an engine hoist with additional height and reach...

As an after thought, a brass mallet may supply the shock needed for separation..

... Philip
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yep. The one on the pallet.

I'd LIKE to split / keep the manual trans in the GV, but that may be a no-go.

I've got an engine hoist and floor jack with trans adapter when needed. I'll be better able to judge pulling only the engine from the vehicle when I start the actual "operation". Of course, 4WD only adds to the interference headache.

Right now it's this (should be easy) part being the first hurdle. I may try placing a floor jack under the trans to support some weight.

After that...the engine hoist around just the tranny. I've got to rig that in such a way that the portable hoist legs will fit UNDER the pallet though. Or use a Fork Truck.
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Old 08-23-2016, 01:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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An earlier (long distance) shot for a better overall reference...

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Old 08-23-2016, 04:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Max.
I recall there being some exhaust brackets that got in the way. They support the cats and have O2 wires clipped to them.
I found think you mentioned the starter, it's been a while but that needs to be unbolted too.
If those are out of the way. It could be just the dowels..
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You still have that EarthLink account? Just sent a pic.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I do have the same account / e-mail if that is what you mean.

But a pic of what portion are you referring to Larry?

I'll triple check for bracketry though.

Yes, the starter is removed.
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