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Old 01-11-2017, 03:16 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Lotta' work for a $30 dollar release fork.

https://monsterfactoryparts.com/part...%26%20FLYWHEEL
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Old 01-16-2017, 05:42 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Landed the replacement engine. Need to hook up all of the related parts and pieces.

Extending the crane boom and choking-up the chain to a short distance provided enough total lift to clear the front sheet metal. The engine combo is 33" tall!

Flywheel checks out fine as is. Even the original machining marks are still visible.



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Old 01-18-2017, 01:39 PM   #63 (permalink)
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It's alive!

No leaks, squeaks, smoke or noise!

I'll sum it up later with some tips and tricks (lessons learned).
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:44 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Congrats, long live...

...Philip
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Old 01-18-2017, 01:46 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Nice job!!
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:36 PM   #66 (permalink)
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good for you. great job. it's a challenge wasn't it.
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:57 PM   #67 (permalink)
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To summarize some key points...

You do not have to disturb any steering components for clearance purposes other than disconnecting the hoses from the pump. The exhaust manifolds will clear as well. I DID remove the exhaust Y pipe to ease the burden for underside fastener access. The engine motor mounts remain with only needing to remove the one nut that secures the two halves on each side. The right mount will scrape the A/C tubing, so some needed caution there.

Disconnecting the front differential at the two long mounting bushing bolts and lowering / rotating slightly the diff assembly with both CV axles still engaged will work for oil pan clearance concerns. Barely.

Addressing the electrical connections at the back / top portion of the engine are best accomplished when the engine is moved several inches forward during removal or reinstalling. This includes the dreaded O2 sensor connections. The remaining two sensors from the Y pipe can JUST be reached and reconnected from below after engine install.

Study closely the disconnect features of plug-in wiring that you are removing. There are several designs utilized. If in question on the O2's, see the FAQ thread. If any of the others, let me know as I have a full wiring harness spare to reference for you.

Bell-housing bolts can (barely) be accessed from below with a combo of 17mm wobble socket and long extensions. 3/8" drive will work in obtaining the needed 65 ft lbs torque to install them BUT are too flimsy a setup to break them loose if still factory installed bolts. 1/2" drive needed there. A terrible time is in store regardless. I almost lowered the trans slightly for bolt access, but resisted and won the battle.

I purchased some wobble EXTENSIONS which helped.
Sunex 2504 1/2-Inch Wobble Drive Extensions Impact Set, 4-Piece (3,5,10,15" lengths)



Placing the starter in its general final resting position prior to fully landing the engine will save you some starter install grief!
Attaching the wiring after bolting it in is still a bit of a chore though.

Install new accessory drive belts and be sure to tension them tight PRIOR to landing the radiator and shroud. It is SO much easier without interference. Tightening techniques are in the FAQ.

Thanks to all that provided input and support along the way. Given my yearly mileage rate and expecting another 300K in engine longevity, I'm good until 2043!
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'99 Grand Vitara JLX, 2.5L V-6, 4WD, 5 spd std, '00 "Limited" leather interior.
'03 Honda Odyssey
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
.
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