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Old 12-17-2016, 04:12 PM   #51 (permalink)
Max
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I think I'm with you Larry.
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:43 PM   #52 (permalink)
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mine were also the 2.5 that i removed from 2 vehicles and i used a cherry picker. just keep the hook on the cherry picker as close to manifold as you can cause i had barely enough room with it fully up to swing engine over rad support. even with that i had to tilt engine by hand to get it over cradle and i had let 1/2 the air out of the front tires too. i had unbolted dif from the driver side but it may have hung down enough to clear oil pan like the other poster had said. just tie it up just in case the pas side axle comes out. if you didn't drain it, it will be all over the place at this time. i had 1 pas axle that stayed in and 1 that came out as it was hanging. don't forget to remove that piece on the driver side rear near firewall for the exhaust sensor cause it will hit top lip on firewall if you don't when you lift engine to clear the mount bolts. can't remember the name of it now but i believe you (Max) had told me about it before when i was removing my engines. it has the plunger in it to aid on cold start ups. i unbolted the drive shaft from rear of front dif so that way it doesn't pull out of the transfer case and puke oil all over the place when you pull dif ahead for clearance from pan.
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:16 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Thanks.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:33 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Default Hit a snag...

Trying to remove the last (top two) bellhousing bolts. I can get to the one closest to the starter, but the other has no clean access.

Even tried this tool, but on the one by the starter I can't create enough torque to break it. The other, can't get to the bolt head still.

Extensions and ratchet just spring. Only 3/8" drive, which doesn't help. A 1/2" drive set-up would offer a better chance.

Dropping the tail end of the trans to tilt the whole mess should allow for a LONG clear shot to them, but I'm taking a different approach from the engine bay. I removed the throttle-body / EGR portion of the intake at the back as the engine will not be used again anyway. Just need to remove the crossover coolant pipe section and then I should be able to get a box-end 17MM on the last two bolts from above and the ability to get a cheater pipe on the wrench. Better than laying flat on your back with minimal body clearance and little mechanical tool advantage.

All this in order to have the trans remain in place. Pulling the whole package may be easier. Don't know yet for sure.

Taking a Holiday trip to see the kids. See you in a week.
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:42 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Yea. I bought a 4 foot 1/2" extension from snap-on just for that job. (Big$$$)
That with a wobble socket did the trick.
Happy holidays and merry Christmas!!
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:14 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Yup and same to you and the rest of the members too Larry!
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Old 01-04-2017, 07:28 AM   #57 (permalink)
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After a week long Holiday break to include a trip to Florida, I've finally unfastened all of the bell-housing bolts.

I removed the last inaccessible ones (yellow two in the upper section) by removing the back portion of the intake plenum and the coolant crossover manifold (arrow).





Just several electrical connections to undo along with the motor mount nuts to remove.
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.
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Old 01-04-2017, 10:44 AM   #58 (permalink)
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there sure isn't a whole lot of room to do what you need to do in that engine bay. i pulled 1 of mine out with trans left in, and pulled the other 1 out as a pair and i found for me it is better and quicker to pull them both at once. it is amazing how quick you can get the trans removed when they are both sitting on the garage floor with an electric 1/2 inch impact gun for the bell housing bolts. that was my best tool for this entire job hands down anywhere i could use it. that sealant suzuki used on all those bolts sure makes it a challenge. glad you got them out.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:26 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Talking Ah HA!

Check out this clutch actuating arm. See anything funky?



Disc looks great given the mileage, HUH?



This is amazing. No appreciable wear or fatigue noted on the flywheel. Thinking that I may just check it for run-out, lightly sand and reuse as is!


Engine came out with relative ease. Positioned the floor jack to support the trans, but did have to wiggle / pry from below (at the engine to trans mating gap) to advance the engine off the two long studs btwn the trans & engine.

Pilot bearing feels rough, although the trans input shaft LOOKS good. Need to replace the berry and measure the shaft.
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'03 Honda Odyssey
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:56 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Yup. Replaced a bunch of those arms.
Usually after they punch right through.
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