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Old 12-14-2016, 01:49 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Default I'm committed now!

The clutch quit on me yesterday on the way to work at 302,520 miles.

Doesn't disengage. Hydraulic end checks fine to include slave movement, but the clutch lever appears compromised. Bent, broken or the pivot ball area busted out probably. It's deep whatever went south. No noises though.

New actuating arm on hand but ordered the Ball / Mount to be on the safe side. All new clutch components standing by of course.

Methodical engine transplant in-progress. Maybe done by X-Mas.
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:01 PM   #32 (permalink)
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when I put my 99 vitara 2.5 engine back in it wouldn't slide onto manual trans unless I took the lower exhaust pipe off. I tried for a day to get it and it wouldn't quite go the last 2 inches but after I removed the lower pipe it went right in. pb blaster works well getting the nuts off and also worked great on the 02 sensors I had saved from my bad engine. I used a box end wrench on the 02 sensors cause the sensor socket I had just wasn't strong enough to do it. I used a floor jack under the front of trans to help them line up. it is a tight fitting engine in that bay.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yep. I've already test loosened the fasteners on the donor engine exhaust pipe and O2's.

Yanked the air box, rad, coolant hoses, fan, belts and pwr steering pump resevoir in an hour and a half today.

Not looking forward to the axle drop and under vehicle stuff.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:40 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
The clutch quit on me yesterday on the way to work at 302,520 miles.
My heart and good wishes go out to you..

Post a pic of the bad unit..

.. Philip
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:42 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I will Phillip.

Thanks too.
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Old 12-16-2016, 03:33 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Damn, now this is where the big boys play. Why not wait til the 300K engine croaks or see if you can run that puppy to 500K or even a millions miles :P? You said there weren't any issues, right?

Not to highjack your thread, but if a Y-pipe is totally rusted or manifold bolts totally fused on an engine, can they still be removed and replaced, or time to get a new engine as well?

Nevermind, I didn't see that the clutch quit on you too, good luck Max!
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:57 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
if a Y-pipe is totally rusted or manifold bolts totally fused on an engine, can they still be removed and replaced, or time to get a new engine as well?
Replacement "Y" pipes are after-market fare.

It's a chore to replace them in general though. PB Blaster liberally applied several times over days, heat, drill, Dremel, pneumatic tool w/carbide burr and some shock and awe thrown in for good measure. Some or all of that in combination.

Those are all potential tooling needs depending on what fastener breaks and where. (and an abundance of patience)
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Old 12-16-2016, 07:00 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Or cut the pipes out with a sawzall knowing you're gonna replace them anyway. You do have it on a lift, right? Patience and time are almost always cheaper if you have the time!
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:43 PM   #39 (permalink)
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for the under vehicle stuff my best friend was an electric impact gun. can't believe how good these are. much better then my air gun. everything came off with this. i unbolted the driver side of the front dif and let it just hang down a bit but i did tie it there with a chunk of rope. my 1 truck it held on it's own but the other one the axle pulled out of the dif so i recommend roping it to be safe. just the front dif is in the way. steering rack and everything else has clearance. why take more off then you need to.
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:56 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Quote:
i unbolted the driver side of the front dif and let it just hang down a bit but i did tie it there with a chunk of rope.
I'll look closer at this in the upcoming week. Thanks.

Leaving the steering rack intact sounds promising. Were you a 4 or V-6?
The manual indicates steering input shaft disconnecting though, that I have to look at.
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