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Old 08-30-2016, 09:01 AM   #21 (permalink)
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The "Y" pipe to pre-cat / manifold bolts... I decided to break mine loose in case I have to take the "Y" pipe off later.

Great access right now, so after week with PB Blaster on them and they were TIGHT! Box end wrench and several hammer taps on the wrench to budge them. Backed the nuts off all of the way one at a time and anti-seized the threads.

PM conversations with member ForenzaLover brought these to my attention as he is having REAL issues with them.

FYI, the bolt heads are tack-welded to the flange.

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Old 08-30-2016, 08:54 PM   #22 (permalink)
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You're leaving the trans in the car and just dropping the engine in right?
In that case you will need to pull the y-pipe off..
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah, that's what I figured (and heard) but then again I was able to pull the auto trans OFF the engine with the pipe in place.

Ok, ok...no interference involved, huh (frame, inner fenders, radiator core support, etc). Can't I hope? A little angle and dangle engine slide-in dance maybe? I hate dealing with the O2 sensor connectors.
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:21 PM   #24 (permalink)
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It's worth a try. I've always taken the pipe off.
But I would leave the O2 connectors in place and unscrew the sensors from the pipe.
I'm interested to see if it will fit though.
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:31 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I do have the the sensors soaking on PB Blaster.

I've given thought to pulling them while still connected, but the resultant winding up of the harness leads might prove troublesome, no?

I have even thought towards cutting and splicing the leads to facilitate removal, leaving the sensors and connectors untouched!
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:48 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Yes, those studs are tack welded to the flange from the factory. I have no idea why. Perhaps to make it less prone to spinning when installing or removing. I broke 3 out of 6 on mine when doing the rear main seal. This probably could not have been avoided but that's fine. I have a new resonator and cross over pipe and the car just sounds so beautiful. I've been delivering mail every day now and I'm finally not embarrassed to drive around!! I need a new muffler soon because a hanger arm on mine broke and it hits the diff on bumps.

Your best best is just to unplug the connectors and then plug them back in. The pipe then simply drops from the manifold and resonator at that point. If you're not replacing the sensors then you need to put them where they belong. To remove mine I had to stand on the pipe while removing them.

You'll need to drop the diff for sure on the front. To lower the propshaft completely you'll need to drop that pipe. If you break something it's no big deal as its easy to deal with out of the car. I believe the steering rack can stay installed or at least lowered via removal of the four bolts, leaving the tie rids attached. Diff carrier removal is easy. Two mounting through bolts and nuts, four propshaft nuts and bolts, you'll want to remove the mount itself on the crossmember, and then the two large 17mm bolts holding the brackets.

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Old 08-30-2016, 09:54 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I hear ya'. I'm going to remove and anti-seize my O2's now, just in case. I did replace one of them some time back.

Hmmmm! "Y"pipe and front prop shaft clearance.
Makes sense, thus probably a pipe must-go sitch. I'll confirm when removing the old engine.
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:05 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Am I thinking the sway bar also had to be lowered? I know I did. Perhaps it was the sway bar instead of the y pipe.
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:07 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I'll figure it out eventually and report back.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Good news!

Both donor engine downstream O2 sensors unscrewed without issue. I left them plugged in too and the approximate 5" long wiring harness leads twisted nicely around themselves without much strain.
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