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Old 08-23-2016, 05:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That guy. Both sides

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Old 08-23-2016, 05:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'll check in the A.M. It is at my work location.

Thanks.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Red face Larry, you made me look...

Buried behind the left pre-cat (bolt head now white for clarity) was the exhaust bracket / culprit.
The similar bracket on the other side was already released with the starter removal.



Two minutes later..."Houston we have separation".

A big Larry!

Of note:

* The trans cleared the still installed exhaust "Y" pipe no problem. Whether it will clear upon mating this engine with the manual trans (in vehicle) remains to be seen.

* The balance point of a non-transfer case trans, with torque converter still installed is the forward most "hump" area of the oil pan.
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Smile Progress!

But first I'll share the ease of Flex-plate bolt access once the tin cover shield is removed. Enough room to fit a conventional socket wrench with a short socket on it, then rotate the crank using the front crank bolt to access the remaining three bolts. Keep in mind though that is with no front axle or frame cross-member in the way (as with the engine IN the vehicle)...



You can easily hold the flex-plate from turning when removing the bolts using a pry-bar.


Flex-plate removed. Larry (or?), not having yet the manual trans engine apart to compare, will I need an alignment dowel inserted in that one untapped hole? If so, pulling a donor pin from the other crank will probably be a chore.
I see no ref in the Manual on a dowel pin, but I'm use to dealing with them on other engine applications, is why I ask. Maybe it will be affixed to the flywheel still?



I should be able to drive out the old trans input shaft pilot bearing from the back of the removed flywheel and with a shop made drift (as pictured in the Service Manual) use it as an install tool for the new bearing.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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No dowel on your application.
It'll just bolt up. With the longer bolts from your 5speed obviously.
If you're changing that rear main, they are very tricky to do properly. Don't use the seal installed tool.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Cool!

Quote:
If you're changing that rear main, they are very tricky to do properly
The area is bone dry (untouched as in the pic) and with only 50K on the engine, I'm going to chance leaving it in place.

Thanks Bud.
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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How long has that engine been sitting?

I would smoke it (before install) to check the integrity of the seals..

Much easier to fix on the pallet or engine stand..

... Philip
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
How long has that engine been sitting?
Maybe six years, BUT I laced each bore with a generous amount of lube oil via the spark plug holes right away and crank it over by battery on occasion. Added a new oil filter and fresh sump oil as well when I got it.



I do plan on pulling the fuel pump relay and crank the crap out of it prior to firing her up. I hope to even achieve oil light extinguishing during the initial test / start process.
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Old 08-26-2016, 12:26 PM   #19 (permalink)
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j/c - are there performance issues with the old engine that are cause for this or just preventive as you have the "new" engine on hand?
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Old 08-26-2016, 01:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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It's just with incredibly high mileage but runs well still! I do have a persistent oil leak from an unable to pinpoint origin.
A quart every two weeks kinda' issue. That has been going on for quite some time. The only grief I have over IT is from the wife for the driveway mess it leaves behind.

Proly a front timing or valve cover prob. And as you know, it's almost as easy to snatch the engine, given the interference removal needs to find / fix the potential leak areas on these babies.
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