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Old 02-25-2013, 10:22 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Closing in on it. I can't read the marks on the left bank, but the right bank is pretty straightforward.
Crank look like

Right bank looks like

Left bank looks like (a bit harder to see)
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:44 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I know I said it before, but DAMN that's a clean engine. Makes me doubt timing chain or tensioner issues with those attributes.

Over-rev'd the engine maybe?

I'm dying to find out what lurks behind the timing cover. I hope SOMETHING is a-foul there that you can put your finger on.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:25 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Regular oil changes. 30K miles. Never run hard, it is the wife's ride.
Those cams are obviously a tooth off. They are ahead of the piston.
That would leave the intake open a bit late, allowing compression to escape. Thus the low numbers.
Amazing that it didn't hit a valve at the top of the exhaust stroke.
Too stormy today, might be a bit before I get it down. But I am convinced that the #1 tensioner (?) freaked out and let the chain jump a tooth. If I have this right, I will change.the offending tensioner and button it back up.
Once I get inside!
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:43 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Jon, this is getting way better then a mystery novel (sorry it has to be at your expense).

There is a bunch of other stuff in there that could also be the culprit (if there is even is a culprit to be found in there?). You have some plastic guides that could have broken up, an idler sprocket with a bearing in it, and as someone else mentioned, a Key in the "snout" of the crank (main drive sprocket) that could have rolled or sheered. The main tensioner shoe could have also broken its pivot point bolt.

One thing is for sure, avoid turning the crank over anymore until you have gotten past the timing cover. Hate to jump one more tooth!

Good Luck

Martin
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Old 02-27-2013, 09:45 AM   #35 (permalink)
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No progress, my 1/2" impact will not move the crank bolt. I am getting a different one from work, hope it has a bit more umphh.
If not, I will start adding air pressure.
I mis-spoke in the above post. The second image is of the right bank, exhaust cam. The final image is lf the right bank intake cam. I said it wrong . . . .
All of this is taking too long, as I keep getting stymied by things like the crank bolt. Then I will need to get the pulley off. I have a plethora of harmonic balancer pullers, I hope one of them will work.
Anyhoo, I hope to get under that cover before the week is out.
Stay tuned!!
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:52 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Surprise, the pulley is not coming off.
I have a good puller, I have the crank bolt reinstalled so I have a good surface to push against, and no dice.
I am afraid I am going to pull the 8mm bolts in two.
Any tips?
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Old 02-27-2013, 04:57 PM   #37 (permalink)
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My setup

http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps53166417.jpg
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:40 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Jon K.

I am desperately hoping this is not the case, but that is typical of a sheared/rolled woodruff key (jams)...

Maybe some strategically applied heat and/or flash freeze with CO2..

MAX is the machinist. maybe he has a better solution.. Philip
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:50 PM   #39 (permalink)
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What is the norm? How difficult are these pulleys under normal conditions?
Do they jump off and land on your foot?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:02 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Rarely had to apply >50'#, they are not a taper fit.

The torque load on the bolt compresses the balancer between the bolt(96-105'#, depending on the service manual) and the shaft shoulder, that is what stabilizes the rotational force, the woodruff is for placement ONLY.... Philip
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