When I installed one inch spring spacers on the front coils, the passenger side front drive shaft came out of the differential (?). It does not have a bolted flange like the driver's side does. What is supposed to hold the drive shaft in, if anything?
Thanks, John
4x4, 2.7L
__________________
'02 XL-7 Touring, 4x4, 2.7L, 195,000 miles
John, did you have the front diff previously serviced (seal, right side)? Or Axle/CV shaft serviced? It's easy not get the drive shaft "snapped" into position. If it has popped loose, you best find out if you have a intact (unbroken) circlip still attached to the Diff end of the shaft or if it was properly put in place during assembly.
I don't think the front diff or CV assembly was serviced in the past few years as it was not indicated in the previous owners records. If the spline came out, does that mean the circlip was not installed or was not installed properly and may be grinding up in my diff gearing?
I think Sections 4A2 and 7E1 in the service manual covers the topic. It states that the right side drive shaft can be pulled out with large screw drivers or a tire lever, which is essentially what happened when i dropped the lower a-arm.
It's not clear, tho, on how the drive shaft is to be reinstalled. Page 4A2-11 says to "Push differential side joint by hand until it is positioned by snap ring fitted to its spline." Can someone interpret that for me?
The front differential made a pretty gnarly sound when I had it in four wheel drive the other day.
thanks for your responses.
__________________
'02 XL-7 Touring, 4x4, 2.7L, 195,000 miles
It's not clear, tho, on how the drive shaft is to be reinstalled. Page 4A2-11 says to "Push differential side joint by hand until it is positioned by snap ring fitted to its spline." Can someone interpret that for me?
Push the axle in until it clicks or snaps into place - what should happen is the circlip is squeezed into the groove and when the axle is fully inserted there will be room for it to expand and lock the axle in place.
If you don't feel it click in, it's not all the way in.
__________________
93 - 1.3 Suzuki Swift GLX
98 - 1.8 Mitsubishi Pajero iO
98 - 2.0 Suzuki Grand Vitara
John, for sure see if it will snap into position and lock but you tossed in the "noise".... hmmm, does not sound good. I know the manual says a screwdriver is good to pop out the CV spline but in my experience it is a pretty tough nut to to crack... so to speak. In fact I ended up making a special tool to do the job... kind of like a ball joint tool)
Also, when it does pop out it the cir-clip (again in my experience) will break into multiple pieces and yes, some of those pieces may stay in the diff. I suspect it might even be possible for the clip to wear on the inner ridge and come apart allowing the CV spline to slid out (leaving the bits and pieces to wander around in the diff). This is no big deal when the broken clip occurs during service, almost always the bit will stay in the spider cage and can be fished out with a magnet. I found it was important to collect all the bits to see if they add up to a "whole" clip ;-)
If it was my rig, I would pull the CV axle assembly out and see if you have (and or replace) the cir-clip. You might also want to drain the diff (not much oil in there so its no big loss) and first check the liquid for bits of the cir-clip. Perhaps do a bit of fishing around with a magnet through the drain hole (can't remember is the drain plug has a magnet in it?)
Thank you, Martin. Your description was sort of what I was imagining. The front diff is not active unless the transfer case is in 4 wheel drive, right? So I can still drive in 2 wheel without causing any potential damage (?) (The front end is smooth and quiet in 2 wheel drive)
__________________
'02 XL-7 Touring, 4x4, 2.7L, 195,000 miles
Diff on a Suzi is locked up using a "air" actuation of a crown locking ring, you still have spinning Axle shafts turning some of the diff components (outer bearings, and the outer spline drives). Fortunately, Crown and Pinion are not turning. Still, a hardened steel cir-clip wandering around in the housing is not good for anything. I would still start by pulling the axle, then drain the oil. If you do a search of either this forum or the Zuk forum somebody has some photos of the inner locking setup, might give you a better idea of how it all works.
IndyMan, did you get the rear bearings fixed? I found part of that clip on my drain plug when I changed the front diff. fluid. I am about to do a spacer lift and will replace the clip at that time. TShaw
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.