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Old 08-15-2011, 03:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Separating the outer CV Joint

Can anyone tell me definitively whether the outer CV Joint on a 2001 XL7 can be taken apart or not? I have read conflicting reports on this issue.

My understanding is that the joint can be separated with a good clout from a heavy hammer on the casing (obviously you have to hold the shaft in a vice or similar). After replacing the rubber boot, the joint can then be reassembled by a firm push to relocate the two parts. Correct?

I donít want to go bashing the life out of the thing if it isnít designed to come apart!

Thanks again!
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:47 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It comes apart - in fact I've never seen a CV that didn't
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks, Fordem!

My reason for asking was this quote from Jeff L in this thread: http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-...s-1999-gv.html . "Okay, once the axle is out you have to take the axle apart from the inside out. This means disassemble the inner CV boot and joint to get the outer boot off. Once the inner boot is off clean some grease away in the joint you will see a big clip that holds the joint together. Pry it out with a screw driver carefully. Then slide the boot off, and slide the outer boot off all the way down the axle shaft."

I have only taken the left side half shaft out thus far. That one has three bolts at the inner joint which makes life easier. The other one presumably just pulls straight out of the differential. I was reading about problems with some kind of clip (a circlip, snap-ring or similar) when removing the half shaft on the right hand side. Any advice on avoiding damage in this process?

Again, the quote is from the same thread as before: "Once the spindle is out of the way, pry the axle out with a prybar or big flat screw driver. The sirclip on the axle almost always breaks off in the diff - don't worry about this. You MUST have a sirclip to put back on the axle whether its the nonbroken old one, or a new one!"

I'm unlikely to find this circlip here in Mozambique so if I can avoid breaking it that would be my first choice!

I see England are the top ranked test team now!! Where are the "Worst Indeed"? Keep well..

Dave
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just did the upgrade to my leaking right front diff seal and have to agree... DON'T attempt the job unless you have spare circlip! Save yourself a trip and have a new one on hand if your going to pop off the cv joint. (reading between the lines you could rightly assume I didn't )

The screw driver pry technique is kind of stupid as it leaves you wondering if the darn thing is even going to come out.... If I were to tackle the job again I would probably make/use some sort of wedge system (or very large ball-joint fork). It's very easy to damage the dust lip on the CV if your prying around in there trying to separate the two parts.

Last, If the circlip goes "walk-about" don't panic, just don't turn the diff over (spin any components) get a strong magnet tool and the odds are you will easily recover the "lost" portions of the clip from the spider housing.

Cheers

Martin
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Towforce,

Thanks for the feedback. I see you were replacing the oil seal in the differential which obviously necessitates removal of the shaft. My seals were good but the CV Joint Boots were completely split on both the outer joints.

Most of the information I could find pointed to the need to prise the right hand side (RHS) shaft out of the diff. Doing this is almost guaranteed to break the final circlip at the end of the shaft which is inside the diff.
I didnít want to do that because it would have been very difficult to find an equivalent spare part here in Mozambique.

Instead, I took an alternative approach to changing the CV Boots and one which I suspect will be much easier for anyone wishing to tackle the CV Boots without disturbing the seals into the diff. It may be that this is obvious to lots of you but it certainly wasnít clear from my reading of the various threads on this website.

I dismantled the RHS inner CV joint in situ by pulling the rubber boot back, removing the wire spring from beneath the outer lip of the joint body and simply sliding out the guts of the joint which are fixed to the end of the shaft, leaving the joint body or casing where it is, fixed to the diff.

It is messy and a bit of patience is required but you donít break anything and you donít risk any damage to the oil seal going into the diff and that is clearly a weak point on a lot of cars!

Reassembly is just the reversal of dismantling and you should make sure that the wire spring clip is properly seated under the lip of the inner CV Joint casing, but there is nothing particularly difficult to do. The worst part of the whole process is separating the lower ball-joint which you only have to do on the RHS. I found that I didnít even need to separate the ball-joint on the track-rod end although doing so would probably give you more play when removing and re-installing the shaft.

Despite what Fordem said above, my analysis of the outer joint is that it doesnít come apart. I just cleaned it as best I could, re-greased it and put on the new boots (which you do have to slide along the shaft from the inner joint once it is dismantled). The official manual indicates that the outer CV Joint cannot be repaired and must be replaced if it is defective, which also leads me to assume that you cannot dismantle the outer CV Joints.

It still isnít clear to me how you get the circlip back into position inside the diff if you do pull it out?! So I would be interested to hear how you put the RHS shaft back into the diff? I suspect the designer didnít intend people to force the shaft out but Iím not sure how he anticipated that you would change the oil seals!

Anyway, I didnít need to and hopefully they will last for some time to come. The half-shafts felt just like reconditioned units once I had cleaned them up and put new boots on so I am happy for now!
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The joint does come apart - clamp the axle in a vice and whack the back of the joint sharply with a dead blow mallet.

Once you've removed the axle, you can pivot the inner race and the cage and pop the balls out one by one and then remove the inner race and the cage - this may appear impossible, but it is - the key lies in how you position the race & the cage - one set (pair) of the holes in the cage is longer than the others.
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Fordem,

I assume you are right. I didn't go any further in taking the joint apart because it wouldn't have helped me, apart from making it easier to clean the internal workings a bit better. The car is back on the road and the joints felt fine when they were ready to go back in. It will be interesting to see if it lasts! I still have an issue with the brakes that I might wrtie more about soon but for now I'm done.

I do hope the trick of separating the RHS inner joint in situ was clear enough in my explanation because I do think that people are being led in to forcing the shaft out of the diff when there is an easier approach, if you are only changing the boots of course!

Thanks again! Dave
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