I'm on the 6th alternator for an '04 Vitara. Each time it starts with the battery light flashing, then a few days later the car just dies. If I let it sit for 20 min or so I can get it to go a few more miles until I can get it to the shop. I've taken it to AutoZone and they say it's the diodes. The mech replaces the Alt and says could never find a problem, just that the alt was bad... 6??? My thought is there is an electrical issue, but not sure where to begin. I'm told that is not the issue, I'm not buying it (but sure am buying Alts...) About 4 years ago I had UHaul put a hitch on. I can't swear, but I think my problems started after that. Like the left rear blinker not working when it's moist out. Yup I said that. As soon as the day heats up the light starts to flash correctly. Not sure if the two are related issues. I do know that when I try to lower a window and it goes super slow or just not at all, the alt is about to stop. I'm getting very frustrated and on my second garage, but same issue. Do I need to take it to an electrical specialist or is this a known issue? Any help will be greatly appreciated. As this is my first post, please remember that and please, if I forgot to mention anything, let me know what and I will try to fill in the blanks. I may be posting in the wrong place, if so, let me know the correct place. I have seen similar posts, but no one has addressed multiple alts going bad...
I'd suspect an excessive ampere load that is spiking the alternator, causing internal component failure. Why some sort of fuse protection isn't effective? Don't know, unless the short / load isn't fused, or is OVER fused.
You should start with getting the needed electronic experienced guy with the appropriate meter / measuring devices to better ascertain the current volt / amp specs, IMO.
And I think that I would have disconnected (made back to original) the trailer wiring addition already.
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'53 Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear end.
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I'd say that unless you have a history of fording deep streams and submerging the alternator, you're getting some pretty poor quality rebuilds - try a new OE unit from SouthWest Suzuki.
An excess ampere load like Max suggests will simply pull whatever current is required from the battery, the alternator will simply have to spend more time at a higher output level, recharging the battery, and it may eventually "cook" itself, but that'll show as burnt windings and not the diodes.
You can also rule the trailer hitch wiring out - even a poorly installed trailer hitch system will be tapped into the existing light wiring, if there's a problem there it will manifest itself as blown fuses.
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93 - 1.3 Suzuki Swift GLX
98 - 1.8 Mitsubishi Pajero iO
98 - 2.0 Suzuki Grand Vitara
fordem, I find your response funny. As aren't the parts for Suzuki made in Japan and wasn't parts of Japan under water? Not a snide remark... Really thanks all for your help.
Actually, yes, I've had the dash removed about two years ago. The heater control came unlinked and we didn't know how to get to it. But not sure what that has to do with the alternator continuously failing?
Actually, yes, I've had the dash removed about two years ago. The heater control came unlinked and we didn't know how to get to it. But not sure what that has to do with the alternator continuously failing?
Did the alternator work before the dash was removed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aquanaut20
Because to load sensing circuit uses the alternator indicator in the dash to control charge... Philip
6 alternators in what period of time?
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96 Geo Metro 84 k mi 3cyl 5sp Lsi
01 Chevy Tracker 4D, 2.5L auto trans, A/C, ps, 125k, mi. auto locking hubs
---------------------- Under Repair
95 Tracker 2D Conv. 16v VIN#6 171k mi. 5sp A/C ps
96 Sidekick Sport 4D 1.8L, auto AC 114k mi.
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6 Alts in four years. No, the Alt was malfunctioning two years prior to Dash removal. The dash removed two years ago, so the problem was prior to the dash.
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