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Old 02-28-2012, 04:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Grand Vitara - 2005 Front Brake - ROTOR

Hello Max or anyone,
I tried to change my front brake pads and rotors last weekend, but ended up changing the brake pads only. I tried very hard to remove one of the rotors (have not being replaced since I bought it, but machined once) but it would not come out. I used penetrating fluid and tapped/banged (untill I almost had a heart attack!!!) many times on the rotor but it just would not come loose. There is no 8mm bolt as mentioned in some of the threads. Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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So you don't have the two small tapped holes for 8MM "jacking" bolts?
Screw some in and that forces the rotor off.



The only other recourse is to go all "Medieval" on them with penetrating oil and dead blow (best) or small sledge hammer smacks. Do protect rotor surface with a piece of wood. Better yet, a short length of HARD wood would be nice to hammer upon as well. Just work the rotor continually around the face / perimeter. It shouldn't take TOO long.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Dear Max,
Thanks for your reply, and the necessary information.
Finally, I managed to get both rotors off, and put on the new rotors.
Thank you again
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi Max,
I have been driving my GV for a while after replacing the pads and rotors. I do feel that the brake pedal is not firm enough ...spongy!!! I guess I have to bleed the brake system. Please advise if there is a sequence (like bleed the left side first and then the right) I have to follow and the best and easy way to do the bleeding. Thank you again.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
I guess I have to bleed the brake system
Yep.

The easiest way for the backyard mechanic...

Pump and Hold Method, two people: One person pumps the brake pedal to compress the air, then holds pressure on it. The other person opens the bleeder valve to let out fluid and air, then closes the valve after the pedal has landed (to prevent air being sucked back in through the valve on the upstroke). The process is repeated, usually many times, for each wheel. Typically a length of clear tubing is connected to the bleeder valve and run to a container during the process, both to collect the toxic brake fluid and to better view the fluid and bubbles. The master cylinder reservoir must be replenished frequently, for if it goes dry the entire process must be redone. The cover must be left loose so that the fluid may be drawn, but should be in place so that fluid does not squirt out on the return stroke. A block may be placed under the pedal so that it does not bottom out during this procedure, as the master cylinder seals could be damaged by encountering accumulated sediment and / or corrosion.

Start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first, working toward the closest wheel last.
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'99 Grand Vitara JLX, 2.5L V-6, 4WD, 5 spd std, '00 "Limited" leather interior.
'53 Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327 SB, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear end.
'03 Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride)
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Max.
Do you think that I have to bleed the rear brakes too or I can leave them alone?
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Do them all, as that will be sure to eliminate any potential air in the system AND provide a much needed flush / renewal to clean fluid.

Curious...did your NEW rotors come configured with jacking bolt (rotor removal) tapped holes?
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'53 Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327 SB, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear end.
'03 Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride)
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Max

Yes, the new rotors I replaced come with 2 jacking holes - similar to the photo you attached with your previous thread.
Thanks again.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zukiman05 View Post
Hello Max or anyone,
I tried to change my front brake pads and rotors last weekend, but ended up changing the brake pads only. I tried very hard to remove one of the rotors (have not being replaced since I bought it, but machined once) but it would not come out. I used penetrating fluid and tapped/banged (untill I almost had a heart attack!!!) many times on the rotor but it just would not come loose. There is no 8mm bolt as mentioned in some of the threads. Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Thanks.
Zukiman05:
I had the same problem on my 05 Grand Viagra. No jacking holes with the front rotors rusted on tight. I worried that too much hammering would be bad for the bearings. Next, I applied penetrating oil around the center hole of the rotor. With the caliper assembly already off, there are 2 mounts or lobes where the bolts used to be. From the back side, I inserted a 5/16" bolt, through the lobe, through a washer, and threaded through a nut. Now , with a wrench on the nut, I had my own jacking screw. The tip of the bolt touched the back side of the rotor. I worried that I might break or bend the caliper mounting lobe so I only tightened my jacking screw 1/2 turn or so. Calling the lobe and bolt 12 o'clock, I tapped on the rotor at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. The lobe absorbed some of the impact, protecting the bearings. After going back and forth between 9 and 3 a few times, I found that the bolt could be tightened another 1/2 turn. I repeated the tapping and tightening process a few times and the rotor came off. Not wanting to ever put my Suzuki through this again, I applied anti seize compound to the hub and to the machined surfaces of the lobes. I installed Centric rotors which have a nice plating around the center hole and outer edges. Then I reinstalled the caliper assembly with new pads and the brakes worked vey well. I wish Centric made a plated rear drum too.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice plan! As long as one doesn't get over zealous with the caliper mounted jacking bolt torquing force, it appears to be a successful work-around.

I'd be concerned as well as to snapping off or bending out of alignment, that caliper tab area too.
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'99 Grand Vitara JLX, 2.5L V-6, 4WD, 5 spd std, '00 "Limited" leather interior.
'53 Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327 SB, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear end.
'03 Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride)
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
.
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