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Old 03-03-2012, 08:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I'm in almost the same boat here except that mine hasn't fully separated yet because someone attempted welding some reinforcement on it. It's ugly. I found a solid donor at the yard and almost had it off when I broke the bolt trying to separate it from the rubber bushing. Had to pay them extra to have it torched the rest of the way off the next morning and wasn't there to see how it finally came out. I scuffed it and sprayed it with rust inhibitor and will final coat it with epoxy paint in a couple of days. I can tell you that there're two locating pins on the top side so there'll be no question as to alignment when installing it to the frame. I haven't read the pdf yet, but thanks for that.
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- 1995 Geo Tracker 2dr, Soft Top, 5sp, 4x4 w/manual hubs, A/C, PS, 160,000mi.+ VIN2CNBJ1866S693XXXX
{{{FRANKENKICK}}} Eng. VIN G16T10XXXX (1996) 1.6L, 16v, MFI, ECU PN:70EA0, SES removed at cluster,
4 Firestone Winterforce 205/75-15 tires on stock aluminum rims


- 1999 Chevy Tracker 4 dr, 2.0L, 5 speed, 4x4

***Please disregard the 'Expert' label as it appears under my user name. Thank you.***
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:40 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I found these instructions from another site (not from me) I plan on using them today.


My 1999 Tracker was denied coverage for its rusted crossmember. The following is what I did with mine. If you chose to do it yourself I've posted how I did it as a guide, I am not an expert it's just information that I think will be helpful.

I purchased a new crossmember from Gmpartseast.com for $237.89 including shipping. I replaced the crossmember myself in my driveway.

I started by spraying all the bolts with penetrating oil a few times the week before I started. 4 bolts are inside the frame accessible through an oval hole in the frame. 4 bolts accessible from under the hood looking down at the crossmember.4 nuts on the lower control arm pivot bolts (I only removed the front bolts). 2 bolts for the radiator support from underneath the car, as are the 4 bolts for the steering rack not so easy to spray. 1 bolt that secures the power steering hose on top of the crossmember I just sprayed on top of this bolt.

To remove the crossmember I removed parts in this order.

1: the bolt securing the power steering hose 10mm wrench or socket.
2: 2 bolts for radiator support 12mm socket.
3: 4 bolts for steering rack 14mm socket it is a tight fit between the front differential.
4: 2 bolts with nuts for the lower control arms 17mm wrench and socket also ball peen hammer and punch to push bolts out.
5: 8 bolts securing crossmember to frame 17mm socket I had to loosen then tighten spray with oil repeat process a few times be patient.
6: using 2 floor jacks I jacked the front wheels until they were just off the ground (place jacks under the frame at factory designated position).
7: Place jack stands under frame.
8: With an assistant using a 5ft. long pipe or pry bar pry the lower control arm down on one side.
9: Now you can wrestle the crossmember out once you get past the pried down control arm your assistant can stop prying.

To install reverse the steps. Remember 2 outer rear bolts in crossmember should be in place before installing as lower control arms block these. Once crossmember was in place I did not fully tighten until after I got steering rack bolted in place. My steering wheel is slightly off center when vehicle is going straight I will look into this (check alignment).

I know I covered some very basic concepts in my explanation but this job is not that hard to do for the average person. Also I chose to pry the lower control arm down instead of climbing all the way underneath my vehicle, if you do it this way be careful you do not break it.

My Tracker has been a very economical vehicle for the nine years I've owned it. The crossmember rust issue has been a bit of a disappointment for me with GM.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:11 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fierodough View Post
Remember 2 outer rear bolts in crossmember should be in place before installing as lower control arms block these.
Yep, no way to get that bolt in the hole once the control arm's in place. Torch at the yard took those two out after he cut the bolt that went through the bushing. Never noticed the bolt for the power steering hose... thanks again.
__________________
- 1995 Geo Tracker 2dr, Soft Top, 5sp, 4x4 w/manual hubs, A/C, PS, 160,000mi.+ VIN2CNBJ1866S693XXXX
{{{FRANKENKICK}}} Eng. VIN G16T10XXXX (1996) 1.6L, 16v, MFI, ECU PN:70EA0, SES removed at cluster,
4 Firestone Winterforce 205/75-15 tires on stock aluminum rims


- 1999 Chevy Tracker 4 dr, 2.0L, 5 speed, 4x4

***Please disregard the 'Expert' label as it appears under my user name. Thank you.***
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:57 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Woohoo!

Ok yesterday we went to a local slavage yard (Kenny U-PULL) and payed $16.99 (CDN) for it! (that's about 17.05 USD LOL!) (from a 200X Grand Vitara)

I rewelded the brackets for the steering rack as they did not look strong enough and may have been damaged when the Vitara was in an accident.

Within the next few days I will re-install it in my Tracker and will take pictures and maybe some video as I'm sure I'm not the only one who needs to perform this repair.

Cheers!
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:23 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Sorry for the slow updates guys, the weather is weird here and getting some time to work on he truck is complicated.

Here is part one of a two part video on removing the (rusted) crossmember from the truck.

Tracker / Vitara Crossmember Removal 1 of 2 - YouTube

Part 2 will be up soon!

Cheers!
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:40 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Part 2!

Tracker / Vitara Crossmember Removal Part 2 of 2 - YouTube

I will make the reassembly video as soon as the weather clears up.

Cheers!
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:00 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Nice videos! Thanks.

Well, my crossmember looks at least as bad as yours. I got it out today, but broke both of the bolts that are above the control arm (one on each side). Not only were the exposed portions of the threads rusty, but the shafts of the bolts were rusted fast inside the crossmember. The one on the passenger side was so bad that it ripped a hole in the frame rather than allow the crossmember to slide off from it! So I'm going to need to do some frame repair before I can put the replacement crossmember in. The one on the driver's side let go of the crossmember,, but it's still a headless bolt with about 2" of shaft protruding from the frame. Hopefully I'll be able to work it out of there. All of this was with several days of soaking with penetrating oil while I was prepping and painting the replacement part.

Note to future readers: Inspect the frame rails above and around the crossmember attaching points as it may deter you from taking on this repair. I might not have purchased this vehicle if I had known it would be this bad.

More after the weekend.
__________________
- 1995 Geo Tracker 2dr, Soft Top, 5sp, 4x4 w/manual hubs, A/C, PS, 160,000mi.+ VIN2CNBJ1866S693XXXX
{{{FRANKENKICK}}} Eng. VIN G16T10XXXX (1996) 1.6L, 16v, MFI, ECU PN:70EA0, SES removed at cluster,
4 Firestone Winterforce 205/75-15 tires on stock aluminum rims


- 1999 Chevy Tracker 4 dr, 2.0L, 5 speed, 4x4

***Please disregard the 'Expert' label as it appears under my user name. Thank you.***
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:24 PM   #28 (permalink)
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heat the bolt until it's bright read then rapidly cool it. That should break it loose.

I broke one bolt but it was one of the long ones away from the a-arm. I cut the nut at the top and put in a new nut.

Took the truck for a test drive. My steering is about 5 degrees off but the truck is not pulling. I guess the alignment shop will fix that. Waiting on my lift kit before I get that done.

Cheers!
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:49 AM   #29 (permalink)
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OK, so it's a long time since my last post. Sorry about that, but I was so disgusted with the shape of this Tracker that I put it on the back burner and took care of some other things before coming back to it. Here are some pictures of my front crossmember repair...



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Old 05-31-2012, 08:51 AM   #30 (permalink)
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