heater blower won't work - Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site
Suzuki Forum Suzuki Forums

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site > Suzuki Models > Suzuki Vitara, Grand Vitara & XL-7 Forum (1999+) > 1G (1999-2005) Vitara & Grand Vitara
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Garage Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto LoansInsurance

Suzuki-Forums.com is the premier Suzuki Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-30-2010, 08:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Gallery: 0
uptimer is on a distinguished road
Default heater blower won't work

I can usually solve issues just by using browsing this site, but no luck on my current issue.

I have a 2000 Grand Vitara that has a blower fan that only spins a few times and stops when you turn the blower switch on. It seems that it just isn't gettting enough power to it and I don't know why. Living in Minnesota I need this to work with the cold weather moving in...

Steps I have done:
1. checked ALL fuses. Only blown fuse was the 25amp AC fuse in the engine compartment. Replaced that.
2. made sure the blower fan could spin and made sure no obstructions
2a. cleaned the cabin filters
3. can power up the blower directly with a different power source and it works
4. blower relay checked out okay
5. blower resistor checked out okay
6. downloaded a manual to look at wiring diagrams - where i'm currently at, to see what I could also check for voltage levels in the system.

Notes: interior lights and all other electrical systems seem to work fine.

I didn't remove the blower motor assembly since I couldn't get the back screw out from underneath. But the motor seems fine, so I left it in.

I'm thinking about disconnecting all the AC unit stuff to see if that somehow is screwing up my power supply.

Thanks in advance
uptimer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-30-2010, 02:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
Max
Moderator
 
Max's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: South Carolina, USA
Posts: 9,869
Gallery: 0
Max is on a distinguished road
Default

You've done your homework.

Did you see any GROUND leads while exploring? If so, I'd check those for good contact.

Have you put a meter to the fan power lead at the fan motor to determine what sort of voltage it is seeing? It should read in increments (low, med, high) speeds, proly a full 12V on high.

You mentioned jumpering in a known 12V source and it ran well, so I THINK you can rule out the motor and focus on the input source.

Welcome aboard too.
__________________
'99 Grand Vitara JLX, 2.5L V-6, 4WD, 5 spd std, '00 "Limited" leather interior. OE center armrest, alarm, Fog lights & Sirius radio.
'53 Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327 SB, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear end.
'03 Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride)
'72 Chevy Nova. One owner, SB, A/C, power disc/drum & steering
.

Last edited by Max; 10-31-2010 at 07:09 AM.
Max is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-30-2010, 09:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
Expert
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hatfield,Pa.
Posts: 487
Gallery: 0
billsmartis is on a distinguished road
Default

A quick fix would be to install this> 12-40V 6.5A 80W DC Motor Speed PWM Controller | Virtual Village - US

It's probably the resistor pack that controls the speeds. I'm not sure where yours is located but it's most likely the problem.
__________________
1992 Kick JX 4x4 4door 1.6-16 valve Fed 235/15s Home made Rear 2" lift 5 Speed
2000 Tracker 4x4 4 door 2.0 4 speed automatic stock
2011 SX4 Hatchback AWD 2.0 CVT stock
billsmartis is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2010, 05:52 AM   #4 (permalink)
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Georgetown, Guyana
Posts: 7,128
Gallery: 0
fordem is on a distinguished road
Default

Looking at that list - there's only one thing left - the speed selector switch.

By the way - if you do get in there with a meter - don't be too upset if the voltages coming out of the switch are all +12V - the switch selects different portions of the resistor pack, but if there's no current flowing, there's no voltage drop across the resistor and the voltages will be the same.
fordem is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2010, 01:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Gallery: 0
uptimer is on a distinguished road
Default

Okay I am looking at this again.....
Re-tested the blower relay, still works great when hooked direct to battery.

Blower motor and fan also work great when I hook in an extra car battery into the leads heading to the Resistor Pack. So it can't be anything with blower motor or resistor pack.

Power going to the blower with the fan switch on high is ONLY 1.8v Not enough to power the blower motor. With the fan switch on low, voltage level close to zero.

Power at the connector leading to the Blower Relay is around 12v at the Control Terminals but ONLY 1.8v or less at the bigger Power terminals for the relay. At least I have power to the control terminals.

I'm at a loss as to why I have so little power coming thru.
I guess I could check the Blower switch, but I don't think it will matter.

I'm tempted to get a seperate controller which someone suggested, if i can't solve it today. Or maybe bypass the relay and run the control terminal leads for the blower relay directly to the power leads going to the blower motor. Maybe attach in my own switch if I hardwire this directly.

Any other suggestions?
uptimer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2010, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Gallery: 0
uptimer is on a distinguished road
Default

Okay I applied a temporary fix for this since I don't have time to troubleshoot.

I found a small DC variable power source I had on hand that could vary 3,6,9, and 12 V DC and could use the cigarette lighter source.

So I hard wired that into my inputs into the blower motor.

1st test failed when the 2 amp fuse failed in the little DC power source end. So I swapped in a 6 amp fuse into the variable DC power source and seems to be holding fine.

At least this way I can vary the speed of the fan blower with my temporary fix.

Since the Cigarette lighter fuse is 20 amp in the car fuse box,
I think the only issue would be to blow the 6 amp fuse in the DC variable power source or maybe fry the little board in that thing.

Any other suggestions still welcome as to why I only have 1.8 V max coming thru the blower circuit.
uptimer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2010, 05:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
Gallery: 0
Tzarph is on a distinguished road
Default

I had a similar problem with my Suzuki and after I lost trust with my local mechanic (who said the blower motor was toast and needed replacement) I contacted one of those answer sites online.

I have copied in the full correspodance I had with them, and I hope this will assist other do-it-yourself guys out there. Good luck!

This is the first part of what I got from them:

My description of the problem:
Air blower works when tested out of the car, however when plugged in the car it doesnt work. Could it be wiring problems or a faulty switch somewhere? How to proceed, especially considering that I know very little about cars?

Optional Information:
Year: 2006
Make: Suzuki
Model: Grand Vitara
Engine: 1,9 DDiS


Billy :
I'm Billy and i will help you with your question.
Billy :
If the blower is working outside the car, then i suggest you check all fuses in fuse/relay box.
Billy :
and press/tighten these fuses while you're at it
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I have checked the fuses already and they all seem to be ok.
Billy :
Well, in that case the problem might reside in the following:
Billy :
1- faulty wiring.
Billy :
2- faulty switch
Billy :
3- faulty control module
Billy :
And these parts must be checked in the above mentionned order.
Billy :
But since you know little about cars (i appreciate your honnesty), you should get your car to a shop so they check these out.
Billy :
And now you know what's wrong, and what's to be fixed, i don't think any one could rip you off.
Billy :
And keep me posted so i assist you, if you have further questions on the subject.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Yeah, thats the thing though. Thats how it all started. The air blower started making funny noises and I went to the car shop where they looked at it. Their conclusion to me was - after billing me for 3 hours of course - was that the air blower was defect and needed to be replaced. However I didn't believe that so I took it with me back home and tested it. and it works fine.
Billy :
Well you can either go to another shop, and tell them the whole story along with the diagnostic procedure i gave you, or you get back to the shop (i suggest that since they already got paid) and tell them that the blower is working, so they find the real problem and they should not charge you since they already have.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I am ready to try to open up the dashboard to be able to get a closer look at the wiring/switches however I am unsure if thats the correct way to go about it, I was wondering if I needed some wiring specs or if the problem could reside in the cars computer or something like that. I suspect the car shop to have "made" some kind of problem, so they could charge me for it.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
They originally said that the problem was caused by a clogged overflow which meant that water had entered the system and probably caused some electrical problems.
Billy :
Oh, since you do not trust the shop you already been to, i suggest you take it to another shop, cause to fix this you need some special tools and probably a scan tool.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I know how to work a voltmeter if thats what you mean, but yeah I understand that this may very well be out of my league. :/
Billy :
If that's the case, then i think you have a fauly module or switch (think the wiring is fine), but everything should be inspected either way.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
faulty module?
Billy :
Nooooo...i'm not saying that it's over your league....it's just that you need some special tools (like a scantool)
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Well the wiring definately looks fine, so I suspect it could be the switch...
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Could you elaborate on what you mean by a faulty module?
Billy :
yes it very well could be the switch.
Billy :
But dashboards are very tricky (cheap plastic), so the guy removing any thing on the dash risks breaking it unless he knows exactly what he's doing.
Billy :
The control module is the small computer that runs the whole automatic climate control in your vehicle.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Ah I see, but if I manually turn on the ventilator to blow at maximum, is the control module still able to cause problems?
Billy :
of course: the module receives the command you give from the switch, and orders the blower....it's the middle man in control!
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Okay, and where is this module located?
Billy :
but i tend to suspect the switch
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
yeah me too
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
how can I test the switch?
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
if I plug in a voltmeter to the power plug for the air blower and try to set it at different settings, then the voltmeter should read out voltages of ... I dunno .... 6 to 12 volts yes?
Billy :
well if you insist on doing this yourself (i do not advise it though) i will try and get you all the wiring diagrams of this system
Billy :
yes
Billy :
about the voltmeter testing input on blower (but since the blower isn't working then there would be no voltage)
Billy :
how many pins are in the plug of the blower
Billy :
?
Billy :
If on the plug you have only two pins (two wires) and these wires do have electricity, then i suggest you change the blower, and if there's no electricity on the plugs, then you probably have to change the switch
Billy :
If you need further info get back to me
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I would like to try and solve it myself.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Rather than going to a car shop right away, that is.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
so, coming back to your questions
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
there is voltage in the plug for the blower
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
there are two pins
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I have tried changing the blower as well, as I thought that was what was wrong initially
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
no luck
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
then I tried connecting the two blowers to 12 V DC and they both worked
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
so its not the blower
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
and as I mentioned earlier, when I test the plug with a voltmeter, there is electricity in it, and the correct amounts
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
however, I do find it a bit strange that when I turn the switch for stronger air blow the voltage and amps drop, I would have anticipated that they should rise
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
so when at max air blow on the switch the voltmeter reads approx 9 V and when at minimum it reads 13V....
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Does this suggest something in particular that I should look at?
Billy :
If you would like to solve it yourself, i suggest the following:
Billy :
first you test if there's voltage and how much on the air blower plug, if there's voltage, then the blower is defective and you should get a new one.
Billy :
If there's no voltage on that plug then you should conduct a continuity test on the blower wires (you put the multimter on ohms and check wires resistance from switch to plug and the resistance should be very small close to zero if the wire is good). If the wire has very high resistance then you should change it (install new wire)
Billy :
If the wires check out and pass the test (wires ok) then you should change the switch.
Billy :
keep me updated, so we get to the bottom of this.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
I have tested the air blower plug and there's voltage between 9V and 13V depending upon how much I turn the knob for air. 13 V when low speed and 9V when at high speed. However, I have tried replacing the blower with another one, since I also thought that it was the blower unit that was defective. Unfortunately that changed nothing. It still doesn't work. And when I test the blowers with a 12V charger unit they both work.
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Next thing to do is to test the wires. When you say from switch to plug you mean what exactly?
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
Okay, so I tried testing the plug with the blower inserted. It immediately went to zero readout. That to me suggests faulty wiring somewhere. Im off to test the wires now. A wiring diagram sure would come in handy.
Billy :
I don't have the wiring diagram, will try to get it by tomorrow.
Billy :
But when you say you tested and you have 13v and 9 v....i need you to describe for further, may be we can define what's wrong:
Billy :
how many wires in the plug? and i need you to test which one is the positive (one leg of the voltmeter on it and other on chassis should give you readings like 12 or 13v)
Billy :
and which one is the negative (would give 0 ohms when tested with chassis/ground, one leg of voltmeter on it and the other on chassis should give 0 ohms)
Billy :
give me dtailed specs on the plug (how many wires) and each wire specs (like + or - chassis)
Billy :
we might be able to solve it once i get the full plug and wire specs (the one you are testing)
JACUSTOMER-bnkkigfj- :
There are 2 wires in the plug. A blue/white and a red/black. The B/W pulls approx. 14V when tested with chassis, whereas the R/B only pulls approx. 1V. Furthermore I can read out ohms on the R/B, whereas the B/W seems to short the multimeter without a reading at all.

Second part will follow right after this post.
Tzarph is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-17-2010, 05:29 AM   #8 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2
Gallery: 0
Tzarph is on a distinguished road
Default

From Billy
Hi again,

I suggest you do the following:

Try putting the switch on full blower power (in car switch) while ignition on, and do the tests again. See what happens on both wires.

You replied
The results I gave you above was indeed with full blower power on the switch. Should I do the test again with no power as well then instead?

From Billy
Yes do the same test, with ignition on but with blower switch in the off position (no air)



You replied
Ok will do. Car is out driving for the evening, so it might not be until tomorrow.




You replied
Okay scratch the previous readings. Here's the correct ones:
The Red/Black wire: With switch in off position the multimeter reads out 0,8V and doesn't seem to give a ohm reading. With switch on full the multimeter seems to gradually build up to 4,7 V and shorts out the ohm reading.

The Blue/White wire: Regardless of switch being in off/full position the multimeter reads out 14,2V and shorts out the ohm reading.
Hope it makes sense to you.



Your Expert needs more information
From Billy
I highly appreciate your patience and hard work!!!
Now i need you to confirm that:
- voltage you get is with one pin of multimeter is on the specified wire while the other on ground (chassis).
- the blower ground or negative comes straight from chassis (contacts with chassis)
- when you conduct these tests is engine on or off.
- when you say gradually build up to 4.7 V do you mean while switch going up to full step by step, or you put on full power and the voltage gradually increases?

Regards,
Billy



You replied
Thank you. I also appreciate your efforts and I look forward to concluding this "challenge".

1. I confirm that the voltage I get is with one pin of multimeter on the specified wire and the other pin on chassis.
2. I do not know whether or not the blower plug negative comes straight from the chassis, the wire disappears into a bundle of wires.
3. I confirm that when I conduct these tests the engine is on.
4. I mean the latter part. I put the switch on full power, place the pins and watch the voltage gradually increase until it reaches 4,7V.
Let me know if you need further info.


From Billy
Hi again,

Got the message and all is good, only one point:
I asked about blower negative (i know it is not on the plug) when you turn blower on with a recharger where do you put the negative on blower?

When you know that, try putting the blue/white wire on positive and put the negative where it should be (where you already tried with recharger) and when i mean put negative, you should make that by touching the blower negative place on chassis.
Now if the blower works, plug the two wires in, and bring a new wire, attach it to chassis and solder it on the blower's negative place, and that should make it work.

Regards,
Billy



You replied
When testing the blower I didn't pay much attention to which of the blowers wires that I put the negative, since I figured that it would only matter in regards to what way the blower rotates its "blades". Either way would function as a test of the blower.

I understand that it is very relevant which way the blower rotates its "blades" when it is installed, as it is very important that the air is pushed into the system and not sucked out.

How do I determine which is the actual blower negative? I have noticed that there's an arrow on the "blades". Perhaps this indicates which way it should turn?

Brgds Thomas


From Billy
Hi Thomas,

It doesn't matter, which is negative, as when it operates correctly, you'll notice inside the car that air is sucked as opposed to being induced, and you will revert the connections. Just try the above described operation, as it may function properly.

Regards,
Billy



You replied
Okay, I will. Two questions: 1. Are there any precautions that I should take? 2. If this is in fact the solution (and I am crossing my fingers that it is) would you care to explain what has happened and why this solves it?

(if you prefer to wait to explain until after I have tested your solution thats okay too)

From Billy
Hey,

You should take usual precautions for working with electrical wires (do not short, and spark)

If this solves your problem (fingers crossed as well) it would be a bad/defective ground.

Good luck



You replied
Semi-successful outcome!

The blower now works when connected as you instruct. However, it seems to go at max power regardless of switch-setting being at off or full... :/


From Billy
If you connected both wires(red/black and blue/white) when you conducted this test, that means you have a faulty switch or control module.
I mostly suspect the switch.

Now if you do not wish to replace parts for now, then i suggest you put a on/off switch on the line you connected so you can turn the blower on and off for now, until you replace the switch (or module).

Regards,
Billy



You replied
Ok, I will do that.

A few issues now arise:
1. How do I go about determining if its the switch or module?
2. Could I get one myself and change it? Will I save good bucks doing it this way, or
3. Should I go to a car shop to have it fixed?
Brgds Thomas



From Billy
Hi Thomas,

First of all let me re-state that i think it most probably is the switch.

To determine, you have to remove switch and module and test/check them. You will save bucks by doing it yourself, but i do not recommend it as it requires dashboard removal (parts of dashboard). And this is very tricky and all the plastic could break easily so you end up paying more than saving. So i suggest you take it to a shop.

Regards,
Billy


You replied
Ok two last questions: 1: how much should I expect to pay for getting it fixed at the car shop? 2: instead of an on/off switch on the wire, could I place something to modulate the voltage to crudely control the blower speed? Like you do with indoor lighting. Brgds Thomas


From Billy
Hi Thomas,

First of all, you may ask as much as you want on the subject....

As for the payment, i am not familiar with the rates at your country, but you should expect a 2 hours labor plus the part's price (rough estimation).

Now if you want to modulate the speed roughly, you need to get a potentiometer that can hold 10 amps (from an electronics shop) and put it in place of the switch. This will give you unlimited speed choices, as it gradually increases and decreases speed.

Regards,
Billy

Thats all of it. GL and take care out there!
Tzarph is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2011, 01:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 38
Gallery: 0
Shuckapeafarms is on a distinguished road
Default A/c issues

I'm just curious if you ever got to the bottom of this nightmare? I have the same issues going on in my 2006 Grand Vitara. I have replaced both the blower motor and the climate control panel to no avail! I smelt electrical when mine started acting up. It would run fine and then the next time .........nothing! Sometimes it would be running fine on a long trip then just quit.........then come back on..........back off etc until it just finally quit. I'm thinking the resistor due to the fact I know for sure everything else works as it should. Took the blower out and hot wired it to another 12V battery and it works flawlessly. The climate control is brand new. I have power everywhere so there's not much more it could be than the resistor. Climate control lights up, chnages air flow position from floor to vents to defrost, 4X4 switch works, recirculation switch operating correctly so what else is there??? A/C compressor is working--------cold line-------freon is perfect?????
I'm ordering a new resistor and going to give it a try........only about $20!
I'm not a advocate of "Dealerships"! They will rip you off hands down........all of them!!! It's even hard these days to find an honest private mechanic! That's pretty freaking pathetic! Been doing my own since I was old enough to ride a bicycle. My dad was a master mechanic and I just watched and learned............TRIAL and ERROR! Thanks

Last edited by Shuckapeafarms; 06-29-2011 at 01:14 PM.
Shuckapeafarms is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2011, 09:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4
Gallery: 0
uptimer is on a distinguished road
Smile Heater Blower Speed control switch FIXED finally!

UPDATE about a year later:

Okay I finally was getting enough flak from the family drivers about not having a good working blower for heat and cold air for
another winter with this vehicle.

My external power option insert had melted in the cigarette lighter a long time ago.
Extra battery on the floor, not a good long term solution for powering the blower motor.
So FORDEM was right on about the lever switch, and that is what I went after yesterday.

I took my time pulling off the pastic moldings and such.

The big molding (upper dash) seemed troublesome until I found the 2 screws by the speedometer near the steering column

hidden by rubber splash covers.

I completely pushed in the HVAC control panel with molding and was able to get to the 2 back screws holding the front

molding by using the space provided where I had pulled the radio out from.

I had disconnected my 60 amp & 30 amp primary fuses near engine, so I put them back in and did a quick test.

I could tell that I was getting a short in the lever switch controlling the blower speed.
I disconnected the power and disconnected the wire harness going into the blower lever speed switch so I could test out the

switch tabs.

My multimeter confirmed that.
I only had connection on the medium high lever setting so 0 ohms there.

Look up in a manual for the HEATER CONTROL LEVER ASSEMBLY
And look 5 tabs, well here I will list them in the order that they look below.
H ~ E
F, MH, ML, L

I assume this is Off, LOW, Medium Low, medium high, HIGH

So you can test with OHMMETER with the lever in different positions.
I just used small alligator clips to attach to the tabs in the connector in the switch.

So I figured at that point all I needed to do was order that switch.

But after searching on-line for parts, I couldn't find it.

The lever switch is built into the Base heater control lever assembly which also contained a seperated black box module for the
control switches ( 5 pushbuttons) that you could detach.

But that didn't help me for what I needed to do.

Then I cut 2 pastic wire type ties holding the wire bundles and disconnected the 2 control cables down near the passenger foot

area.
So I could pull the Control panel unit out enough to get a real good look at how the Lever assembly blower speed switch was

built in.

I could see the you could pry the top of the switch off since it has tabs on the sides.

So i did that being very careful and working both sides at a time.

Removing the top I could see a loose ball bearing stuck in a bunch of grease.
I removed some of the grease.
I cleaned up the contacts and put the ball bearing back in place. (Like putting the lead tip back on the end of a broken pencil)
Basically the ball bearing is attached to the other end of the lever that you move to vary blower speed.

I carefully pushed the top cover back and tested.
I could now almost hear a click when I went thru the different speed modes with moving the lever. It didn't feel too loose

anymore.
So if your speed lever moves to easy, you will have to do this fix.

I hooked up my 60 amp & 30 amp primary fuses and gave it a whirl and my blower works and the blower speed lever, works

like a champ.

I'm in process of putting everything back, just need radio back in and panel.
And I didn't break any plastic tabs or anything. so that is good.

NOW I see that this Grand vitara (2000) is leaking some oil by the valve covers... and I don't like where the ALTERNATOR is

located, below that.
So I will have to deal with that next at some point.

I just did the valve cover gaskets on my 92 Mitsubishi Montero (original owner) and that was a royal pain. Because the

electrical engine wires become so brittle over 18 years of Minnesota winters. I hate tearing down and having to fix, replace

hoses and wires as you go...

But with the inside wires I had to deal with in the Grand Vitara, I didn't have that issue.
So hopefully I didn't create any shorts or anything.

Special Thanks to Max and Fordem for their comments and to this site in general!!


NOW not sure where you could get that switch, but really there is not much to it besides the contacts and lever with ball bearing. I suppose It could get worn down.
uptimer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site > Suzuki Models > Suzuki Vitara, Grand Vitara & XL-7 Forum (1999+) > 1G (1999-2005) Vitara & Grand Vitara

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Suzuki Forums: Suzuki Forum Site forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:09 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.3.2
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.