Sorry for the poor quality.... That manual is an American published version I believe?
Once again 20W50 is mentioned. So many graphs.... so much confusion! My manual would be from Suzuki Japan and is the latest referrence so far, I think?
I wonder what the current shape GV owner's manual says seeing as they still use the same H27A engines?
I thought that odd TOO Dave. Bottom line...it proly doesn't make a whole lot of difference nailing down any one oil recipe. (within reason)
Yes, I'd be comfortable using the 5W30 except for the Summer temps we get here. Running the current 5W40 Shell Helix Ultra I only get rattling for less than a second (I crank it over and in the short time it takes the revs to climb to the ~1900RPM cold idle it's normally silent.)
PS: I wish there was some way to reduce the cold start idle speed but the IAC valve is built into the throttle body. I cringe at an engine revving so high from a cold start. On a previous car I owned there was a separate pipe that fed an external IAC valve and partially blocking that off gave a much lower cold idle.
My pic came from a service manual pdf, its copyrighted 2000. Seems odd that there is so much variation, maybe my manual is the "world" version as it has the greatest range of oil weights.
Thanks for the explanation of how the tensioner works too. I guess the ratcheting mechanism has the potential to gum up since it doesn't move very often. The pics that Max posted show a bit of oil crud build up and I've seen pictures of engines run only on synthetic oil that have no noticble build up, so maybe the moral of the story is to use synthetic oil?
Once I started doing my own oil changes I mostly use synthetic, I haven't been into any of my engines internals yet so I can't say what they look like. Hopefully very clean but they started with regular oil for the first 10 changes or so.
Ian
p.s.
David,
The higher start revs may not be so bad, as are there not some parts that rely on splash lubrication? The cylinder walls for one and parts of the valve train?
This winter I'm going to set up a timer to run the block heaters in my cars for the morning starts. I've read that you come out ahead just on the fuel savings of not warming your engine from -20C, plus the reduced wear of a less cold start. People on the ecomodder forum use the block heaters even for 10C because of the reduced fuel consumption.
Since day one I used 10w30, a few months ago I went over to 5w30 what a mistake that was. It was as if I poured water into the engine, I developed an oil leak that I needed to add 1 quart a day (120 miles). After washing the bottom of engine several times, I still couldn't locate the leak, it seemed to be comming from the rear seal. At 127,000 miles I wasn't going to invest to repair this leak. I changed to 10w40 mixed with one quart of 20w50 and the leak disappeared, I dont smell the burning of oil anymore and I'm using 1qt. every 1000 miles which seems to be normal. So much 5w30
My old bazillion mile 99' 2.5 uses a quart between 3K oil changes, and I've had a nuisance leak (it leaves a quarter size spot whenever parked) for two years now on 5W-30. It originates from somewhere near the back of the engine. Rear main proly.
At least you saw some improvement w/the higher weight oil though! You (and Murcod) have given me thoughts of going 10W-30 next change and see if it makes for an improvement for me as well. I think it will as I tried a can of STP two changes ago, and noticed a lessened leak spot. That and temperature down here will support the heavier oil (low's occasional 20's and highs often in the 90's)
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
Back on topic, I think the rattle is a piece of broken or loose guide rubbing on the chain, or the chain rubbing the engine due to the lack a guide. I've seen it happen on vehicles before with the plastic, phenolic, guides. Most recently I have seen it on a 1999 Esteem when I was looking for one.
I couldn't believe 1000 bucks for parts but that is pretty accurate, wow. I'd be tempted to cheap out and just replace the chain and guides. But a dealer won't do that.
I sympathize with those who rely on mechanics.
Replacing the guides and tensioner and water pump would be acceptable if you can't lift the chain off the gears any significant amount. I would not gaurentee anything though...
I hear a lot about this timing chain problem and the word on the Tracker Forum has been the quality of oil used and making sure you change it regularly. I have been using Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic and changing oil every 7500 kms. I have also hear that it's not so much the tensioner that is the problem, it's the the timing chain guides wearing out and causing too much play in the chain which is hitting the front of the engine. One of the posters actually was brave enough to tackle the job himself with a friend and posted pics of the job and the damage to the timing chain guide rails. One of the guides had disintegrated. A big job how ever you look at it. The consensus is use a good oil is paramount in these engines.
(within reason)
That and temperature down here will support the heavier oil (low's occasional 20's and highs often in the 90's)
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