I just bought a 4dr Vitara Automatic 4wd... when I test drove it It had a slight vibration at hwy speeds but I attributed it to the winter tires that he had on it. Anyway, I bought it, and installed brand new all seasons ... The vibration is still there between 45mph (70km/h) and 70mph (110km/h). The vibration is more pronounced when I pull my aluminum boat behind.
I had Three garages (drive line specialists) look at it and all three gave me a different opinion. The last one was adamant that it was my drive shaft but after three experts giving me three different opinions, I am not so sure. I don't want to spend money here and there until it finally gets hit..so I am wondering if there is a common complaint/fix for these units?
PS... the three opinions were;
1. Differential ... needs rebuilding
2. Front differential (dont know why he would say front when I dont feel it on the steering wheel)
3. Drive shaft ... needs replacing/balancing
Last edited by plncrzy : 07-04-2008 at 09:59 AM.
Reason: added data
Ruling out tires and rims then (which would have been MY target as well):
Is it a CONSTANT vibe...on or off the gas, and in btwn that transition while driving? Then I'd suspect wheel bearings, drive shaft, "U" joints or CV axles, but not either of the diffs.
At the vibe speed...place trans in neutral. Does it still vibe? Then it's not the engine or trans. If the vibe stops, suspect engine / trans mounts, engine "mis" or torque converter prob.
Of the three options / opinions you have, I'd pull the driveshaft and have it, the carrier bearing and the "U" joints checked 1st. To me, it's most likely and the least expensive project of the three.
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72' Chevy Nova, SB, A/C, pwr disk/drum & steering, one owner.
99' Suzuki Grand Vitara, 2.5 V-6, 4wd, 5spd.
53' Chevy 3100 Pick-up w/327, TH400 trans w/78' Nova rear.
03' Honda Odyssey (Momma's ride) Click for pics
It does vibrate continuously between 45 and 70 on and off the gas, AND in neutral.... BTW there is no noise ... just vibration between those speeds that is enhanced if I tow my boat. So judging by your suggestion, its either the drive shaft OR the rear axle bearings. The third garage said that the u-joints were good. I suppose I should bring my drive shaft to get balanced, if that does not solve it, then I guess I will have to try the bearings... although.... one would think that bearing in the axle would be noisy if they were that bad... wouldn't they?
See if the vehicle vibes at those same corresponding RPM / MPH spots while sitting still too. Again, that would point to the engine or trans.
Been in any fender benders or had ANY work done on the drive train recently? That might point to a problem area as well.
Thanks again for that... no fender benders, no vib while reving and sitting idle... just on the road between 45 and 70 ... speed dependant.. not RPM... so looks like either drive shaft or rear axles.... but leaning toward drive shaft right now.
How about simply removing the rear drive shaft, and carefully driving at the critical speeds in 4WD. It´s only four (tight) bolts to remove it.
You´d want to put a plastic bag over the hole in the transfer case to stop dust getting in.
To do the same to test the front drive shaft is not so easy, as oil level will be reduced, but feasible for a SHORT test drive.
Surely the front driveshaft is stationary in 2WD, no? Does this model not have the same fixed hub design as the later models?
Since the (rear) driveshaft is turning much faster than the wheels the frequency would be about 4x higher than that caused by axle/wheel issues, and not likely to show up the higher speeds.
I would focus on the rear diff, those parts at wheel speed, perhaps checking the oil first to see if there are signs of increased wear - especially as a few people have had problems in this area.
It does vibrate continuously between 45 and 70 on and off the gas, AND in neutral.... BTW there is no noise ... just vibration between those speeds that is enhanced if I tow my boat. So judging by your suggestion, its either the drive shaft OR the rear axle bearings. The third garage said that the u-joints were good.
Did they remove the shaft to make that diagnosis? The joints could be dry or rusted in the cups, cannot check tight U-joints without removing axle.
Pull the shaft and check for tight U-Joints. My 2c worth.
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92 Ford Explorer, 450k
97 Ford Explorer, 352k
99 Tracker, 150k
Hi Kiwi, of course you´re right, minor block on my part caused by too many 4WD vehicles over the past quarter century, no two with the same arrangement! The rear propeller shaft is so easy to check that perhaps I would still recommend its elimination, before getting into more difficult territory.
I remember a Land Rover with terrible vibration, which disappeared when 4WD was engaged for long distances on tarmac. Then there were antique Range Rovers with hose clips on the shafts to balance them.......................