Are you running the 2.0L 4 banger? Do you know for sure if that is an interference engine? If so, piston / valve probs in all likelihood.

Debris?...Oh yeah. Sprocket teeth, plastic guide pieces in the pan (at least) for sure. Can you clean it out? Hate to see the oil filter have to deal with it. Of course the pieces would have to try and get by the oil PUMP first. Not good.

How many miles on this engine? Enough to throw in the towel and finding / rebuilding anew? Just looking at the pics and surrounding parts...she's probably lived a hard life to date, no? Or maybe just the climate.

 

Yeah, it's the 2.0L 4 banger. The only good thing is that it was idling when it stopped, there was no horrible noises or anything, it just stopped. I have gotten most of the teeth out of the pan via magnet, believe it or not, they are steel sprokets, not aluminum. I am hoping that I can just flush the pan without having to remove it, because removing the pan means dropping the front axle and rack and pinion unit. I actually picked the plastic pieces out that were still stuck to the chain and block. I think I have most of them.

 

Well, I wasn't losing oil, I have had a power steering leak as of late that I couldn't find, but I have replaced and tightened all the o rings and seals that I could find in the system. I think the goo in the picture is more power steering fluid + miscellaneous road grime.

Should I replace the water pump? I really want to get to the point of starting it and hearing it run to see if there is any valve/piston issues before I decide to put any money into it. If I have to remove the head to get the valves done, then I will go the whole 9 yards with some new parts or possibly a new engine. There is a 2002 Tracker 4d 4wd about 10 miles away being sold for parts as it was t-boned. The motor is a 2.0L with 56k miles on it, he will let me have the motor for $500 if I need it.

Here are a list of some of the other issues I have to look into, maybe someone here has some insight:

A/C - Has a distinct 'whistling' sound when running at idle, although I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It is also losing 'freon' so I suspect a bad o-ring or compressor.
Electrical - There is some kind of oscillation in all the lights and I have replaced the voltage regulator.
4WD - Recently, when I shift into 4WD, the 4WD indicator on the dash blinks

There is also a rattling coming from somewhre under the car. I have removed the heat shields from the exhaust manifold and the bottom of the catalytic converter, since they were falling off anyways, but I beleive there is one above the catalytic converter that still rattles at idle.

Oh, and before I forget, I was able to get all the parts I needed through my local parts store whom I have used for 20 years, except for 3 parts, the upper guide, upper tensioner and the sprockets, which they said were dealer only parts.

Cam Sprockets - $50 each at Chevrolet dealer
Upper Guide - $22 at Chevrolet Dealer
Upper Tensioner - $111 at Chevrolet dealer
Lower Fixed Guide - $18 Parts City
Lower Adjustable Guide - $42 Parts City
Lower Tensioner - $44 Parts City
Upper Chain - $38 Parts City
Lower Chain - $46 Parts City


I also found this after the fact....

1.8 J18A 2.0 J20A DOHC Timing Chain Kit (GEO - Suzuki) Aerio, Esteem, Sidekick Sport, Tracker, Vitara

 

Yep. It must be the power steering fluid leak that shows.

Water pumps have a 100-200K failure (seal leak) rate. If you have to pull the head, I'd do it then for sure. A re-man goes for as little as $35 bucks though.
1999 CHEVROLET TRACKER Water Pump

Check RockAutos timing chain related parts prices. Are they decent? Just curious once again.
1999 CHEVROLET TRACKER Engine Parts

That $500 dollar spare engine sounds pretty damn good! Keep that one in your back pocket. Have you heard it run?

A/C whistle...belt noise? Rub some bar soap on the belt and see if it helps.

Exhaust noise...check the hangers and "hammer test" the cat and muffler for loose internals.

A/C leak. It is what it is. Check seal area behind the compressor pulley for oil, and all hose / tubing connections for same.

Wow! Nice kit that you found in that last link. It'll help out future folks / inquiry for sure.

 

I added more to my last reply instead of starting a new one, I keep thinking of stuff to add that may help people with the same issue, that link above also they have 2.5l parts,and older suzuki/chevy tracker/vitara kits and sprokets at great prices.

Suzuki Engine Rebuild Parts

I thought about rock auto, but they didn't have everything available and I was in a hurry when I started this project. I have since slowed down and borrowed my mother's car (1992 Geo Tracker 2 door 4wd w/ 77k miles) Her car is the reason I bought a Tracker. They have never done anything but general maint. on it, no problems whatsoever.

The local parts that I bought were all the same brand, Cloyes, which is what rock auto has as well. The difference in price was minimal, to the point of being insignificant since I was able to get them next day at no extra charge from my parts house. Had they not been able to get them, I probably would have ordered that kit that I linked at the bottom.

As far as the spare engine goes, I have driven that wrecked tracker up and down a driveway, although it is bent at the frame, it still runs perfect and I'm trying to get him to sell me the whole thing for $1000. All the drivers side, front and rear parts are in fine shape and the interior is still mint.

the A/C whistle sound is coming from the internal fan or somewhere else under the dash. It only occurs with the air on and the car at idle. I have changed the belt and still had the same issue. It's a non issue at the moment since the air isn't working, hopefully it will work again once I reassemble the car and get it running again.

Exhaust. I had the flange repaired a few months ago at the cat. It was rusted through and had a terrible leak. They inspected my cat for me and replaced the muffler too, so I am still leaning towards a heat shield, but I will check the hangers.

 

The pictures of the broken guide and stripped teeth look exactly as mine did when I heard a strange rattle from under the hood. Luckily I was servicing the A/C at the time and immediately shut the engine off and pulled the valve cover.
Mine went at only 55K miles. I ended up going with Chevy parts from GMPartsdirect.com. They were about half of what the local dealer wanted for the parts (retail + locally).
I pulled the oil pan which did require dropping the front axle, but it really wasn't that bad lowering the axle. What was kind of a pain was that I still had to disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine slightly to get the oil pan in and out.
I used the recommended Chevy sealant (part number 1#12346141)when I put it back together which I am now sold on! Two years and almost 20K more miles and no leaks. It was easy to remove when I was tearing apart , and it seals really well. I keep the sealant around for any time I need a good sealant for any project.
Good luck with finishing the project.

DesertTracker
2000 4x4 2dr. 2.0L

 

Well, I got it together today, and I think my big fear has been confirmed. It started, but wouldn't stay running. I tried adjusting the timing, but could only keep the car running if I kept it over 2500 rpms. I'm pretty sure I need to pull the head and have the valves done. It sounded to me like it was only running on 3 cylinders at the time. Any suggestions? Is there another possibility besides a valve problem that anyone can think of?

 

A compression test will confirm if the head needs to be pulled for further internal exam.

 

This is what I will do tomorrow after borrowing a compression tester from Autozone....This is what ALLDATA tells me to do, anyone got a different way to do it that might benefit me more?


Testing and Inspection

Perform a compression test in order to determine the cylinder compression pressure. Use a compression test in order to diagnose lack of power, excessive oil consumption, or poor fuel economy.


Verify that the battery is fully charged or close to fully charged.



Notice: This engine is equipped with an aluminum cylinder head. Allow the engine to cool before removing spark plugs. Removing the spark plugs from an engine at operating temperature may damage the spark plug threads in the cylinder head. Also be sure to clean any dirt or debris from around spark plug holes prior to removing spark plugs.

Important: The engine should be at room temperature.

Disconnect the fuel injector harness electrical connector.

Disconnect the electrical connectors at the ignition coils.

Remove the ignition coils.

Remove the spark plugs.


Install a compression gauge (2) into a spark plug hole.

Depress the clutch pedal on vehicles that are equipped with a manual transmission.

Depress the accelerator pedal to the floor for a wide open throttle.
Crank the engine through four compression strokes for each cylinder being tested.

Measure and record the highest pressure reading on the compression gauge. Standard Compression Pressure: 1,400 kPa (199 psi) Minimum Compression Pressure: 1,200 kPa (170 psi) Compression Variance: The maximum allowable compression pressure difference between any two cylinders is 100 kPa (15 psi) .

Repeat the compression test procedures for the remaining three cylinders.

If some cylinders have low compression, inject approximately 15 ml (one tablespoon) of engine oil into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.

Normal-Compression builds up quickly and evenly to the specified compression for each cylinder.

Piston Rings Leaking - Compression is low on the first stroke. Then compression builds up with the following strokes but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably when oil is added.

Valves Leaking - Compression is low on the first stroke. Compression usually does not build up on the following strokes. Compression does not improve much when oil is added.

If two adjacent cylinders have lower than normal compression, and injecting oil into the cylinders does not increase the compression, the cause may be a head gasket leaking between the two cylinders.

Remove the compression gauge from the engine.

Install the four spark plugs.

Install the ignition coils.

Connect the electrical connectors at the ignition coils.

Connect the fuel injector harness connector.

 

You can't go wrong w/that procedure Tim. Two things not to miss are a fresh batterry and removal of ALL of the plugs before you begin. That ensures good, repeatable test results for comparison.

I've been thinking...are you SURE it's not a cylinder mis-fire? (coil pack / connector thing) OR possibly not getting the timing marks dead-on during repair? Did the engine throw a code? Does it SOUND normal (noise / mechanical wise) when running?

After that you probably "kissed" a valve with a piston when the sprocket situation let go. You'll know right away w/the compression test. IF the test shows good, go back to the work effort items mentioned above.

 

I put the battery on a charger last night, so it should be fine when I get home from work and start the testing.

I'm not positive that it's not a misfire, although I did put new plugs in before I started it up. The timing marks on the chains were lined up according to the blue and yellow links and engine block markers and sprokets. The engine didn't throw a code, I checked that as well, so at least the P0340 code was gone. It doesn't sound normal to me when it is running. It almost sounds like it is gasping for air. There is a ticking sound, but I beleive that is the Upper tensioner as it was making the same noise when I was hand turning the crank to make sure the timing marks lined up after connecting everything. Since I haven't put the fan back on yet, it allows me to hear more than 'normal' noises from the engine. I will do the compression test tonight and verify whether or not I have valve or piston problems. I'm hoping that I do not and that I just need to either reset the timing, replace the coil packs or something else relatively simple. If not, my local shop can do the head for me relatively cheap, I just have to pull it and take it over there.

Thanks again.

 

Sounds like a good plan!

That "tick" COULD be a spark SNAP (as in shorting to ground vice firing the plug). Look closely at each plug when you remove them. Look for a black / wet / oily looking one indicating no fire, although it COULD be due to no compression in that cylinder too.

Depending on if you have go deep, and what a head re-work will set you back $'s wise... don't forget that spare engine down the street.

 

I already have $600 into it for the Timing components done and the initial towing and diagnostic from the mechanic. I've already gone way past that point and now it's personal. LOL I might as well just remove the head and repair/replace everything there. Can't really hurt and I will probably get another 100k miles out of it.

 

I can relate to your pain!

IF you go deep...inspect the cylinder walls and bore ridge at the top of the ring travel to help determine further long term servicability.

 

On another note, I can get a new head complete for $369 + shipping.

2.0 Liter, 1999-00, DOHC, 16 valve, Tracker; VIN #C; /

 

Re-built Cylinder Heads Start with a part number: CH-
These heads have a Re-manufactured casting, reground valves, springs, retainers within OEM specs and new seals.

Yes, it's a reman head. In pricing out having mine done vs. getting a reman head, that would be almost half the cost. I'll figure it out once I test the old one first.

or a rebuild on mine would be $259 + any parts that need replacing. Re-build Four Cylinder Head w/Double Overhead Cam

 

It's been a while since I had a head re-worked, but those prices seem high to me. Plus the shipping (back and forth for your head) or one way for THEIR head proly $50 each way.

I'd look at a reputable LOCAL machine shop to vat out, pressure check, grind / seat all valves, renew seals and replace only the one valve (valves?) bent. My $.02 worth any who.

 

I had a friend take a look at it who is a bit more proficient in this area of engines. He seems to think I may have missed by 1 link when I put the chain on. I'm gonna tear it back down tonight and take a look and be a bit more careful. Couldn't really do a compression test at this point if the timing chain isn't correctly aligned.

 

Well, Got a compression tester and I have found that cylinder 2 and 3 have no compression at all. Guess it's time to get the head done.

I got a couple quotes from local machine shops as well and the price to have the head reworked seems to be in the $300-500 range. I'm really just tempted to buy the reman from the previous link as it would be quicker and probably cheaper and easier as well.

 

Timing chain set-up was OK (or correcrted), but no compression.

On to bent valves it appears. Let's hope the piston tops and cylinder bores are still in good shape.

Two adjacent cylinders (2&3 in this case) with zero compression often indicates a blown head gasket. Something to inspect when you pop the head off.

 

Well, I have ordered a reman head and a complete head/exhaust/intake gasket set, so blown head gasket wouldn't be a big deal since it will be replaced anyways. And so the saga continues......

 

I'd yank the head and inspect before going any further.

Who knows! Maybe it's a head gasket only prob (or worse yet) you'll find block / piston issues). Either way, you won't have to have a re-worked head. Not inspecting further to find the FULL extent of damage may be a costly mistake, IMO.

 

Well, I scratched the ordering of a reman and found a local machine shop, only 2 miles away that will do it for $225 + parts and can have it done in a day. I just have to wait until this Saturday to take it down and take it in.

On another note, I will snap a picture of the replacement guide that I got from Chevy. The new one is much more durable and looks to be a much better design.

I wouldn't scratch getting a 99+ Tracker. This problem that I had is like anything else, a mechanical problem that just happened from worn out parts. I have been nothing but happy with the Tracker and would recommend one to anyone interested. I bought mine because my mom has a 1991 2 door that has never had anything done to it besides oil changes, tires, brakes and other preventative maintenance (even has the same clutch). It's currently what I drive 100 miles a day round trip until I get mine repaired.

 

Ok, I have pulled the head, and found 3 or 4 bent valves. No piston damage that I can see, they look good, just a bit dirty. I'll get a picture up here of the block for ya cj!. I'm taking the head in to the shop in the morning, they should have it back to me by Wednesday and it should run me about $300 or so. Another $60 for the gasket set and hopefully I'll be up and running by the weekend. Cross your fingers!!!

 

There are some images I took, I will try and get a measurment out for you but I don't have anything besides a standard tape measure. I'll bring something a bit smaller and more precise home from work this week. As you can see from the picture, there really isn't alot to work with as far as increasing the bore. There is some gunk that fell down into the cylinders as I was removing the head. I will clean this out shop vac style before reassembly. I checked the cylinders, there is no scarring or damage that I can see or feel. All looks good so far.