My nose tells me the 99 GV is due for a new clutch. Can't do this myself this time cause the left wing is recovering from surgery. So what's a reasonable labor charge for this and replacing the clutch slave cylinder? I'll supply the parts...which leads to question No. 2...any particular clutch kit/cylinder recommended or reviled based on your past experience?
Looks like about $150 for a clutch kit (Advance Auto Parts) plus $45 for a new clutch slave cylinder...plus about $330 for labor. Ouch...bad time to have one shoulder outta commission.[/QUOTE]
What sort of Symptom will I get if my GV is having clutch problem?
I don't have problem with changing gear. However, I found the clutch pedal is little loose at 1cm space before I need to step down from the top to the postion harder force (pushing the hydraulic).
When I am releasing the clutch after changed the gear, I can hear little "click" sound and feel somthing hit the pedal at the positing of total released clutch.
Clutch life is all about the amount of use and abuse incurred. Slip is usually the #1 problem followed by grinding / popping sounds when the pressure plate or release bearing go out. I've got 206K on mine w/mostly highway miles and no off-roading, nor towing. The "norm" is probably 100-125K.
Clutch pedal play is discussed below. Your "clicking" noise could be from several sources, but not normally alarming. You've got a clutch safety start switch and a 2nd switch that works in conjuction with the cruise control, along with a spring and linkage pivot points all related to your clutch pedal / linkage under the dash. Any one item could cause a light clicking noise. I'd get under the dash and try and ID the origin, and grease the clevis / linkage while you're under there. Occasionally, the clutch arm and / or the release bearing and pressure plate emit a sound as you describe. You would hear / feel those better from beneath the vehicle proper if you investigate from under the car.
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Max, thanks for the information and the lovely diagram :-) I need to print it out.
My GV has done 38000 miles in 6 years so far, so I guess it should be ok but London traffic is not that good in fact. I have also done bit googling about clutch slip, I guess my 1 is ok as I have got 80mph at 3000 rev at 5th gear. I guess it should not lose any power!?
I think my GV "a" distance after the clutch pedal from free to depress is around the 25mm and this gap is quite loose. Sounds interesting, I have seen this symptom on different GV before, I have tested so many GVs since I am after 1 for 2 years. Some have and some not
I will definitely follow your instruction checking the clutch pedal this weekend. Hopefully, finger cross as I am just too sensitive with my new big toy.
After these days googling about how to adjust the clutch pedal, I am still not confident to do it. I think the clutch pedal loose bit is called "free travel" or "free part", that is to ensure the clutch is fully engaged. In my case, there is around 20mm of the gap. Refer to the googling and your note, that is normal but I feel bit annoying with the loose gap feeling. If I want to adjust the pedal just little bit higher to reduce the free travel to 10mm, do I just take off the clip and then turn the push rod anticlockwise? I know the Clevis Lock Nut is connected with the Push Rod. If I don't loose the lock nut, will I not be able to turn the push rod?
Sorry, I know this is silly question but I am bit confused and scared to unlock any screws at the moment.
You got it! Loosen the lock nut and turn the threaded rod, leaving the clevis and pin intact.
It's a little tight up in there. You MAY have to turn the rod w/pliers or a small set of vice grips.
I am with you now.
1. leave the Clevis and Clip intact
2. Loosen the (Max picture no.2) Clevis lock nut
3. Use a piler to turn Push Rod anticlockwise
4. Tight the Clevis lock nut
5. Ensure there is still around 15mm "Free Travel"
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