sorry for your sick engine !!!
please explain in details your terms.
dumping fuel , is that a leak. ?
i think you are saying the car likes to flood at the drop of a hat. (yes, huh?)
test for open of what?
this is the 8v engine, making it far easy to fix. and test.
1 injector, which can be watched in any mode, sitting, cranking, idling and racing.
cool huh ?
i do not know the history of your engine. or before.
replaced motor. ok.
if you replaced the motor ,did you do any testing of it to be sure it is a good air pump.
eg: compression test, vacuum test, inspect timing belt for proper time and Ignition timing , or just a straight swap and pry.?
If tested compression on engines , sitting on a pallet. (need bell housing and starter and 1 battery) Saves tons of grief and labor.
history is everything as is context and what was done.
Personally : I'd
do a compression test just to see , is it an engine or is it a pile of junk. GO, NOGO.?
150PSI on all cycl. even PSI , as possible all 4.
your symtoms could be caused many things.
WOT start, cuts fuel and it starts , proving the flooded state.
why it floods can take many a path.
I presume it starts WOT and then with R.foot relaxed it dies (flooded again)
1: lack of air. ( can you start car with 5-10% exta throttle (this is air actually)?)
yes,then this proves lack of air.
2: too much fuel (clogged return line, bad fuel pressure reg.
3: bad motor. (100 things, here can be wrong) compression test elliminates most.
your Injector reads 1 ohm, never ever hot wire it, or you will destroy it.
0.8 to 1.2 ohms is the spec on this injector.
if its open , you get no fuel at all .
instead of that: Test 1:
1: remove air horn. (plactic cap first then bolts,)
2: key on 5 times while looking down horn (mirror helps)
person 1 keys on (not starting ok?) each key on the pump spins for 3 seconds.
what we are doing here is looking at the injector tip. in side throttle body.
here:
http://carfix.stufftoread.com/fresh-...inj-view1w.jpg
look from side, and look for these conditions:
1: it may squirt one 1 time at key on , beginning moment..
2: after above squirt (my be very tiny or none) and be sure after that it dont just sit there and dribble for 1 minute or more.
if it dribbles or you are really cautious , then unplug the injector wire conn.
this kills it. now key one
3: the injecter must not squirt or dribble , if it does , IT IS BAD , have it cleaned by witchunter.com
that is the TEST1.
flooding is complex.
if extra gas pedal air starts car (not WOT) then you car is starving for air
or the ECU is over fueling.
the ECT is the primary reason the ECU might over fuel.
if it reads -40c when it is 10C then it is bad and ECU uses tons of fuel because it thinks your are parked on the N. Pole.
YOu didnt mention the CEL lamp.
you didnt mention , did you do a tune up on the car.
the IAC can be clogged, (in the base of TB , throttle body)
the IAC , electric (right side of T
can be clogged and dead.
tricks
unplug IAC elect conn. see if it starts and runs better. (do not force it , it has locks)
next put back conn. now disconnect top air host to same IAC.
this is the main air hose.
start car, make sure it suck air real loudly , feel it, it has good flow.
if you plug hole (not hose the steel nipple) this will cause idle to drop too low.
that is a normal IAC electric.ops.
lets do tests, lets find out what is really wrong.
Keep in mind it could be anything,
even a dribbling injector,( i call a snotty nose)
injectors can and do , stick open.
this car , this engine. , this Throttle body.
was it ever sitting for a long time the TB , that is ? with old fuel in it.
then someone started it and ran bad fuel thru that injector.
the injector is $19 to have cleaned.
with a full flow test and data sheet , attached.
i can show you mine and we can compare, if need be.
tells us more.
cheers
